A dish is written
as an equation.Jelo se piše
kao jednačina.

1. IModusModus

   There is a measure in everything. Subtract to the essence.U svemu postoji mera. Oduzmi do suštine.

2. IIThe right measurePrava meradefinitiondefinicija

   The measure is right when adding no longer improves and taking away already spoils. Below that point the dish lacks something; above it is noise.Mera je prava kada dodatak više ne poboljšava, a oduzimanje već kvari. Ispod te tačke jelu nešto fali; iznad nje je buka.

3. IIITruth of the ingredientIstina namirnice

   The anchor of the dish tastes of what it is. Everything else on the plate exists to amplify it or to answer it.Sidro jela ima ukus onoga što jeste. Sve ostalo na tanjiru postoji da ga pojača ili da mu odgovori.

4. IVMeaningSmisao

   A dish exists only if it can be said in one sentence, and if the menu would be poorer without it.Jelo postoji samo ako može da se kaže jednom rečenicom, i ako bi bez njega meni bio siromašniji.

5. VConservationOdržanje

   Nothing disappears without a trace: every gram has a destination, on the plate, in another component or at staff meal.Ništa ne nestaje bez traga: svaki gram namirnice ima odredište, na tanjiru, u drugoj komponenti ili na stolu osoblja.

The second sentence is the definition that makes the whole system measurable. It is checked by two tests at the table, M8 adding and M9 taking away: when both pass, the dish is at its right measure.Druga rečenica je definicija koja ceo sistem čini merljivim. Proverava se dvema probama za stolom, M8 dodavanje i M9 oduzimanje: kad obe prođu, jelo je na pravoj meri.

The triple test: how the right measure is foundTrostruka proba: kako se nalazi prava mera

The same component in three concentrations, blind, side by side. The winner is the one the definition describes: more brings nothing, less already lacks. If another one wins, the number in the table moves and the test is repeated.Ista komponenta u tri koncentracije, naslepo, jedna pored druge. Pobeđuje ona za koju važi definicija: više ne donosi ništa, manje već fali. Ako pobedi neka druga, broj u tablici se pomera i proba se ponavlja.

Calibration: one plate each of five savoury dishes and three desserts is weighed component by component, with salt and sugar from the recipe. From that come our own indices and our own salt balance; only then do the base formulas stop being a hypothesis.Kalibracija: po jedan tanjir pet slanih jela i tri deserta izvaga se komponentu po komponentu, a so i šećer prepišu se iz recepta. Iz toga dobijamo naše indekse i naš bilans soli; tek tada osnovne formule prestaju da budu hipoteza.

1. The anchor in gramsSidro u gramima. Start from the anchor per portion: 40–60 g in a tasting sequence, more for a main course. Everything else is measured against it.Počinje se od sidra po porciji: 40–60 g u sledu degustacije, više za glavno jelo. Sve ostalo se meri prema njemu.
2. Indices into gramsIndeksi u grame. Grams on the plate = index ÷ 10 × the anchor. The base formula with a 60 g anchor gives base 36 g, sauce 24 g, sharpness 12 g, crust 6 g; then the scale corrects it.Grami na tanjiru = indeks ÷ 10 × sidro. Osnovna formula sa sidrom od 60 g daje osnovu 36 g, sos 24 g, oštrinu 12 g, koru 6 g; posle ispravlja vaga.
3. One component, one reactionJedna komponenta, jedna reakcija. Ingredients on the left, the conditions above the arrow in the order they are performed, each with its number, the place on the right.Sastojci levo, uslovi iznad strelice redom kojim se izvode, svaki sa brojem, mesto desno.
4. Salt by the tableSo po tablici. The anchor mild (dry brine 0.7–1.5 % or a fish brine of 6–7 % for 15–20 min); purée 1.0–1.5 %; sauce 0.8–1.2 % after reduction, measured first when the liquid is already salted; condiments 1.5–3 %; crust 0.5–1 %. The bite lands at 0.8–1.0 %, a dessert at 0.3–0.6 %.Sidro blago (suvo soljenje 0,7–1,5 % ili salamura za ribu 6–7 % na 15–20 min); pire 1,0–1,5 %; sos 0,8–1,2 % posle redukcije, prvo izmeren ako je tečnost već slana; prilozi 1,5–3 %; kora 0,5–1 %. Zalogaj staje na 0,8–1,0 %, desert na 0,3–0,6 %.
5. Acid twiceKiselina dvaput. Every sauce finishes with 1 % of its mass in 5 % vinegar or lemon, then a taste. And one component of its own is sour, most often from the pantry: pickling liquid 10 : 4 : 4 : 1, pickled mustard seed.Svaki sos se završava sa 1 % svoje mase sirćeta od 5 % ili limuna, pa proba. I jedna komponenta je kisela sama, najčešće iz ostave: tečnost za kiseljenje 10 : 4 : 4 : 1, kiselo zrno senfa.
6. Five components at mostNajviše pet komponenti. When a plate has more, nothing is thrown out: ingredients that do the same job become one component. On a palette Modus counts per bite.Kad tanjir ima više, ništa se ne izbacuje: sastojci koji rade isti posao postaju jedna komponenta. Na paleti Modus broji po zalogaju.
7. Fire by the tableVatra po tablici. Tender meat to a core of 55–60 °C, tough meat long at 62–68 °C or braised, white fish 55–60 °C, egg cream 79–83 °C, crust from 115–120 °C. Offal and shellfish to a safe core, measured with a probe.Mekano meso do 55–60 °C u jezgru, tvrdo dugo na 62–68 °C ili pirjano, bela riba 55–60 °C, krem od jaja 79–83 °C, kora od 115–120 °C. Iznutrice i školjke do bezbednog jezgra, mereno sondom.
8. The pantry firstOstava pre jela. Stocks, demi-glace and umami sauce à la Asket go into the pantry without salt and without acid; both go in only in the dish’s own sauce.Temeljci, demiglas i umami sos a la Asket idu u ostavu bez soli i bez kiseline; oboje ulazi tek u sos jela.
9. Every gram has a destinationSvaki gram ima odredište. Trim, bones, liquor and peel each go somewhere named: into a sauce, an oil, a spread, the staff table (M7).Obrezi, kosti, voda i kora idu negde imenovano: u sos, ulje, namaz, na sto osoblja (M7).
10. ExecutionIzvođenje. Quantities for 10 portions with the yield written down; by day (D-2, D-1, before service, service), the station by place, one checkpoint per row.Količine za 10 porcija, sa zapisanim prinosom; po danima (D-2, D-1, pre servisa, servis), stanica po mestu, jedna kontrolna tačka po redu.

KvarnerKvarner

Langoustine · tomato and fennel · leek · cherry tomato · clamsŠkamp · paradajz i komorač · praziluk · čeri · vongole

Kvarner on a plate: grilled langoustine, tomato and clams alla buzara.Kvarner na tanjiru: škamp sa grila, paradajz i vongole na buzaru.

Formula · computed from the gramsFormula · izračunata iz grama

[T] An·Cr₁₀ Fu·Iu₆ Fu₂ Ac₁ Au / Sa

ReactionsReakcije

• An·CrGrilled langoustine, buzara crumbsŠkamp sa grila, mrvice buzare90 g
  hand: split lengthwise, devein ▸ salt: brine 7 % / 15 min ▸ cold: on ice ▸ fire: embers or plancha 250 °C, 40 s shell side + 20 s flesh ▸ time: rest 30 s ▸ fire: crumbs 160 °C / 6 min with the garlic ▸ hand: parsley and crumbs over at the last secondruka: raseći uzduž, očistiti crevo ▸ so: salamura 7 % / 15 min ▸ hladnoća: na ledu ▸ vatra: žar ili ploča 250 °C, 40 s na oklopu + 20 s na mesu ▸ vreme: odmor 30 s ▸ vatra: mrvice 160 °C / 6 min sa belim lukom ▸ ruka: peršun i mrvice preko u poslednjoj sekundi
• Fu·IuReduction of tomato, red onion and fennelRedukcija soka od paradajza, ljubičastog luka i komorača50 g
  fire: sweat the onion and fennel 10 min ▸ fire: tomatoes 30 min ▸ hand: strain through muslin without pressing ▸ fire: reduce to a third ▸ acid: 1 % white wine vinegar, then taste ▸ salt: 1.0 %vatra: luk i komorač dinstati 10 min ▸ vatra: paradajz 30 min ▸ ruka: procediti kroz gazu, bez pritiskanja ▸ vatra: redukovati na trećinu ▸ kiselina: 1 % belog vinskog sirćeta, pa proba ▸ so: 1,0 %
• FuConfit leekKonfitirani praziluk15 g
  fire: confit in oil 90 °C / 40 min ▸ hand: cut 4 cm barrels ▸ fire: char on the grill 30 svatra: konfitirati u ulju 90 °C / 40 min ▸ ruka: seći valjke 4 cm ▸ vatra: zapeći na žaru 30 s
• AcCharred cherry tomatoesPaljeni čeri paradajz12 g
  fire: torch or embers 250 °C until the skin splits, 60 s ▸ salt: flaky salt 1.5 % ▸ acid: a drop of vinegarvatra: brener ili žar 250 °C dok kora ne pukne, 60 s ▸ so: krupna so 1,5 % ▸ kiselina: kap sirćeta
• AuSmoked leek oilUlje od dimljenog prazilukatracetrag
  air and smoke: cold smoke 20 min ▸ fire: char black ▸ hand: blend with the oil 1 : 2 at 60 °C ▸ time: drip overnightvazduh i dim: hladni dim 20 min ▸ vatra: zapeći do crnog ▸ ruka: blendovati sa uljem 1 : 2 na 60 °C ▸ vreme: cediti preko noći
• SaClams with buzara foamVongole sa penom od buzare20 g
  cold: purge 1 h in salted water ▸ fire: open covered with the wine and garlic until all are open, ≈ 3–4 min; discard any that stay closed ▸ hand: strain the juice, 0.5 % lecithin, froth with a stick blender ▸ hand: clam meat into the foam at the last minutehladnoća: čistiti 1 h u slanoj vodi ▸ vatra: otvoriti poklopljeno sa vinom i belim lukom dok se sve ne otvore, ≈ 3–4 min; zatvorene baciti ▸ ruka: sok procediti, 0,5 % lecitina, penasti štapnim mikserom ▸ ruka: meso školjki u penu u poslednjem minutu

Salt balance · the biteBilans soli · zalogaj

Grilled langoustine, buzara crumbsŠkamp sa grila, mrvice buzare · An·Cr	90 g	0.7 %0,7 %
Reduction of tomato, red onion and fennelRedukcija soka od paradajza, ljubičastog luka i komorača · Fu·Iu	50 g	1.0 %1,0 %
Confit leekKonfitirani praziluk · Fu	15 g	1.0 %1,0 %
Charred cherry tomatoesPaljeni čeri paradajz · Ac	12 g	1.5 %1,5 %
The biteZalogaj	167 g	0.87 %0,87 %

The law ModusZakon Modus

M1 ✓M2 ✓M3 ✓M4 ✓M5 ✓M6 scalevagaM7 ✓M8 tablestoM9 tablestoM10 tablestoM11 tablesto

Weights are an estimate from the working recipe; salt percentages are targets from the table of measures, so M6 waits for the scale. M8 to M11 are decided at the table.Težine su procena iz radnog recepta; procenti soli su ciljevi iz tablice mera, pa M6 čeka vagu. M8 do M11 se odlučuju za stolom.

All thirteen dishes in the Asket Lab →Svih trinaest jela u Asket Labu →

1. Evening beforeVeče pre
   Ars
   Prep list from the dish cards (D-2 and D-1 rows), ordered by duration, with quantities from bookingsPrep lista iz karata jela (redovi D-2 i D-1), po trajanju, sa količinama iz rezervacija
   Terra orders against the pantryTerra naručuje prema ostavi
2. ReceivingPrijem
   Terra
   Deliveries on the scale: quality, weight, price per kilo; deviations loggedRoba na vagu: kvalitet, težina, cena po kilogramu; zapis odstupanja
   Pantry: what expires goes on the prep listOstava: šta ističe ide u prep listu
3. PrepPriprema
   Ars
   Reactions by the card, each with its number; ovens and probes calibrated; a test plateReakcije po karti, svaka sa brojem; kalibracija rerni i termometara; probni tanjir
4. Line checkLine check
   Modus
   Every station, every component, tasted; salt by the table of measuresSvaka stanica, svaka komponenta, proba; so po tablici mera
   Mensa briefs the floor: sentences, allergies, paceMensa: brifing sa salom, rečenice, alergije, tempo
5. ServiceServis
   Mensa
   Running the pass and the pace; the stations perform the service reactionsRad na pasu i tempo; stanice izvode servisne reakcije
   Modus tastes the first plate of every dishModus proba prvi tanjir svakog jela
6. After servicePosle servisa
   Modus
   Ten minutes: which condition failed, what came back untouched, what changes tomorrow10 minuta: koji uslov je pao, šta se vratilo netaknuto, šta se menja sutra
   Terra logs waste into the mass balance; Ars writes the new prep listTerra upisuje otpad u bilans mase; Ars piše novu prep listu

• Once the team is larger than five, whoever writes the cards does not run service. They observe and take notes: the test of whether the kitchen works without them.Čim tim ima više od pet ljudi, ko piše karte ne vodi servis. Posmatra i beleži: tako se proverava da li kuhinja radi i bez njega.
• After service we talk about the condition that failed, never about the person.Posle servisa se govori o uslovu koji je pao, nikad o čoveku.
• Every mistake goes into tomorrow’s prep list or into the table of measures. The loop closes in one day, not one season.Svaka greška ide u sutrašnju prep listu ili u tablicu mera. Petlja se zatvara za jedan dan, a ne za jednu sezonu.

1. 1
   SensesČula1 day1 dan

   Salt in four steps (0.6 / 0.8 / 1.0 / 1.2 %) and a triple test of sugar in the same cream; the cook writes down what they taste.So u četiri koraka (0,6 / 0,8 / 1,0 / 1,2 %) i trostruka proba šećera u istom kremu; kuvar zapisuje šta oseti.

   Ready whenSpreman kadaTells 0.8 % from 1.0 % salt blind.Naslepo razlikuje 0,8 i 1,0 % soli.
2. 2
   PantryOstava1 week1 nedelja

   Make five pantry bases to measure and check them on the scale and by taste.Napraviti pet osnova iz ostave po meri i proveriti ih vagom i probom.

   Ready whenSpreman kadaFive bases pass the scale and the tasting without correction.Pet osnova prolazi vagu i probu bez ispravke.
3. 3
   ReadingČitanje1 week1 nedelja

   Weigh five known dishes and write their formulas; find the X, the zeros and the salt balance.Izvagati pet poznatih jela i napisati im formule; naći X, nule i bilans soli.

   Ready whenSpreman kadaWrites the formula of someone else’s plate and finds what has no place.Napiše formulu tuđeg tanjira i nađe ono što nema mesto.
4. 4
   BalanceRavnoteža1 day per dish1 dan po jelu

   Take a dish from your own menu, write its formula and bring it to M1–M11.Uzeti jelo sa svog menija, zapisati mu formulu i dovesti ga do M1–M11.

   Ready whenSpreman kadaBrings a dish to M1–M7 on paper and the scale, and M8–M9 at the table.Dovede jelo do M1–M7 na papiru i vagi, i M8–M9 za stolom.
5. 5
   SynthesisSinteza1 month1 mesec

   A new dish from the base formula: anchor, indices, reactions, card, three versions.Novo jelo iz osnovne formule: sidro, indeksi, reakcije, karta, tri verzije.

   Ready whenSpreman kadaAnother cook makes the dish from the card, and it passes all eleven conditions.Drugi kuvar napravi jelo po karti i ono prolazi svih jedanaest uslova.

A step is what a cook can do; a place in the team table is what they carry today. Growth is a new step, not a new title: a commis on the second step runs the pantry, and on the fourth can be the Modus of a neighbouring station.Stepen je ono što kuvar ume; mesto u tabeli tima je ono što danas nosi. Rast je novi stepen, a ne nova titula: commis na drugom stepenu vodi ostavu, a na četvrtom može da bude Modus susedne stanice.