BasicsOsnove · 05

Fat and water,
held together.
Mast i voda,
na okupu.

Mayonnaise, vinaigrette and beurre blanc. Hollandaise and béarnaise are with the sauces.Majonez, vinegret i beurre blanc. Holandez i bearnez su kod sosova.

1907 measures: 1 lb = 454 g · 1 oz = 28 g · 1 quart = 1.14 l · 1 pint = 0.57 l · 1 tablespoon ≈ 15 ml · 1 bottle ≈ 0.75 l.Mere iz 1907: 1 lb = 454 g · 1 oz = 28 g · 1 kvart = 1,14 l · 1 pinta = 0,57 l · 1 kašika ≈ 15 ml · 1 boca ≈ 0,75 l.

01

MayonnaiseMajonez sauce mayonnaise

Oil held in raw egg yolks with vinegar. The cold sister of hollandaise.Ulje vezano u sirovim žumancima uz sirće. Hladna sestra holandeza.
Iu · cold emulsionIu · hladna emulzijaEscoffier, formula 126Eskofije, formula 126
Original · Escoffier, formula 126Original · Eskofije, formula 126
Yield: Prinos: not stated (about 1.4 l, our estimate)nije navedeno (oko 1,4 l, naša procena)
1907metricmetrički
6raw egg yolks, the chalazae removedsirovih žumanaca, bez halaza
½ oz14 gtable saltkuhinjske soli
a little cayenne peppermalo kajenske paprike
⅕ pint⅕ pinte0.11 l0,11 lvinegarsirćeta
1 quart1 kvart1.14 l1,14 loilulja
1lemon, the juicelimun, sok
3 tbsp3 kašike≈ 45 mlboiling waterključale vode
  1. Put the yolks in a bowl and season them with the salt and cayenne.Žumanca stavi u činiju i začini solju i kajenskom paprikom.
  2. Pour in the vinegar gradually, whisking briskly.Postepeno sipaj sirće, energično muteći.
  3. When the vinegar is absorbed, add the oil in a thin thread, whisking all the time.Kad se sirće upije, dodaj ulje u tankom mlazu, sve vreme muteći.
  4. Finish with the lemon juice and the boiling water.Završi limunovim sokom i ključalom vodom.
  • Why it turns: the oil went in too fast at the start; the oil was congealed or too cold; too much oil for the yolks. Work at kitchen temperature, not on ice.Zašto se preseče: ulje je na početku išlo prebrzo; ulje je bilo stegnuto ili prehladno; previše ulja za žumanca. Radi na sobnoj temperaturi, ne na ledu.
  • Remedy: "Put the yolk of an egg into a basin with a few drops of vinegar, and mix the turned Mayonnaise in it, little by little." For a small amount, ½ coffee-spoon of mustard instead of the yolk.Spas: žumance sa nekoliko kapi sirćeta u čistu činiju, pa u njega malo-pomalo presečeni majonez. Za malu količinu, ½ kafene kašičice senfa umesto žumanceta.
  • Covered, it keeps several days.Pokriven, drži se nekoliko dana.
  • The English edition says one yolk can take only 2½ oz (71 g) of oil if the sauce is to be kept, 3 oz if it is used at once. That does not agree with his own recipe, about 190 ml per yolk. Work from the recipe.Englesko izdanje kaže da jedno žumance prima samo 2½ oz (71 g) ulja ako se sos čuva, 3 oz ako se odmah koristi. To se ne slaže sa njegovim receptom, oko 190 ml po žumancetu. Radi po receptu.
TodayDanas
  • Most kitchens add a little mustard at the start: it helps the emulsion and the taste. Escoffier uses mustard only to rescue a turned sauce.Većina kuhinja na početku doda malo senfa: pomaže emulziji i ukusu. Eskofije senf koristi samo da spase presečen sos.
  • A neutral oil (sunflower, rapeseed) for the base. Extra virgin olive oil alone turns bitter when blended hard.Neutralno ulje (suncokretovo, repičino) za osnovu. Samo ekstra devičansko maslinovo ulje postane gorko kad se jako blenduje.
  • Stick blender: whole egg, acid, salt and oil in a tall jar, blender at the bottom, lifted slowly. One minute.Štapni mikser: celo jaje, kiselina, so i ulje u visokoj posudi, mikser na dnu, polako se podiže. Jedan minut.
Asket versionAsket verzija
  • Here salt and acid belong to the sauce. Escoffier's salt comes out at about 1 % of the sauce, inside our range for sauces (0.8–1.2 %).Ovde so i kiselina pripadaju sosu. Eskofijeova so izlazi oko 1 % sosa, u našem rasponu za sosove (0,8–1,2 %).
  • For guests, pasteurised yolks. With raw yolks, made and used the same day: our house rule, stricter than Escoffier's "several days".Za goste, pasterizovana žumanca. Sa sirovim žumancima, pravi se i troši isti dan: naše kućno pravilo, strože od Eskofijeovih „nekoliko dana“.
When reality does not follow the recipeKad stvarnost ne prati recept
  • It turnedPresekao se A fresh yolk with a few drops of vinegar in a clean bowl, then the turned sauce into it little by little. A spoon of water instead of the yolk also works, as French schools teach.Sveže žumance sa nekoliko kapi sirćeta u čistoj činiji, pa u njega malo-pomalo presečeni sos. Radi i kašika vode umesto žumanceta, kako uče francuske škole.
  • Too thickPregust A few drops of water or vinegar.Nekoliko kapi vode ili sirćeta.
  • It will not takeNeće da se veže Oil too fast at the start, or too cold. Start again with a new yolk, as above.Ulje je na početku išlo prebrzo, ili je bilo prehladno. Počni ponovo sa novim žumancetom, kao gore.
  • Vulnerable guestsOsetljivi gosti For older guests, pregnant women, young children and anyone with weakened immunity: pasteurised yolks.Za starije goste, trudnice, malu decu i osobe oslabljenog imuniteta: pasterizovana žumanca.
StorageČuvanje
  • Closed, at 5 °C or below. With raw yolks: the same day. With pasteurised yolks: 3 days.Zatvoren, na 5 °C ili niže. Sa sirovim žumancima: isti dan. Sa pasterizovanim: 3 dana.
Sauces made from itSosovi koji iz njega nastaju
  • RémouladeRemulad + mustard, gherkins, capers, herbs, anchovy+ senf, kornišoni, kapar, bilje, inćun
  • Tartare (today)Tartar (danas) + gherkins, capers, onion, herbs+ kornišoni, kapar, luk, bilje
  • AïoliAjoli + crushed garlic+ zgnječen beli luk
  • With aspic (formula 127)Sa aspikom (formula 127) ½ pint aspic per 1½ pints, for coating½ pinte aspika na 1½ pintu, za premazivanje
02

VinaigretteVinegret sauce vinaigrette

Oil and vinegar, three to one, with capers and herbs. It does not stay mixed: shake it before every use.Ulje i sirće, tri prema jedan, sa kaparom i biljem. Ne ostaje sjedinjen: promućkaj ga pre svake upotrebe.
Original · Escoffier, formula 129Original · Eskofije, formula 129
Yield: Prinos: not stated (about 0.85 l)nije navedeno (oko 0,85 l)
1907metricmetrički
1 pint1 pinta0.57 l0,57 loilulja
⅓ pint⅓ pinte0.19 l0,19 lvinegarsirćeta
salt and pepperso i biber
2 oz57 gsmall caperssitnog kapara
3 tbsp3 kašike≈ 45 mlchopped onion and fine herbs: onion and parsley in equal parts, chervil, tarragon and chives half as much eachiseckanog luka i bilja: luk i peršun podjednako, krbuljice, estragona i vlašca upola manje od svakog
  1. Mix everything together.Sve sjedini.
  • Often 2–3 tablespoons of the cooking liquor of the dish are added.Često se doda 2–3 kašike tečnosti u kojoj je jelo kuvano.
TodayDanas
  • The French school still teaches nearly the same: 1 l of oil, 0.3 l of vinegar, mustard optional, 40 g (Académie de Bordeaux).Francuska škola i danas uči skoro isto: 1 l ulja, 0,3 l sirćeta, senf po želji, 40 g (Académie de Bordeaux).
  • Salt dissolves in vinegar, not in oil: salt goes into the vinegar first.So se rastvara u sirćetu, ne u ulju: so prvo ide u sirće.
  • A little mustard holds it together for minutes instead of seconds.Malo senfa ga drži sjedinjenim minutima, a ne sekundama.
Asket versionAsket verzija
  • Pantry version: oil and vinegar only. Herbs and salt go in on the day: in acid, green herbs turn olive within hours.Verzija za ostavu: samo ulje i sirće. Bilje i so idu tog dana: u kiselini zeleno bilje za nekoliko sati izgubi boju.
  • This is where the Ac of a plate often comes from: weigh the dressing against the leaves, do not pour by eye.Odavde često dolazi Ac na tanjiru: preliv odmeri prema listovima, ne sipaj odoka.
When reality does not follow the recipeKad stvarnost ne prati recept
  • Too sharpPreoštar More oil, or a softer vinegar (apple, rice), or a drop of honey.Više ulja, ili blaže sirće (jabukovo, pirinčano), ili kap meda.
  • Separates on the plateRazdvaja se na tanjiru Mustard, or a spoon of a purée from the dish; shake just before dressing.Senf, ili kašika pirea iz jela; promućkaj tik pre prelivanja.
  • No fresh herbsNema svežeg bilja Capers, shallot and a little dried tarragon soaked in the vinegar.Kapar, ljutika i malo suvog estragona potopljenog u sirće.
StorageČuvanje
  • Oil and vinegar alone: weeks, closed, cool and dark. With herbs, shallot or garlic: fridge, 3 days.Samo ulje i sirće: nedeljama, zatvoreno, na hladnom i tamnom. Sa biljem, ljutikom ili belim lukom: frižider, 3 dana.
03

Beurre blancBeurre blanc beurre blanc · beurre nantais

A reduction of shallot, wine and vinegar, and cold butter whisked in piece by piece. No yolk: the butter holds itself.Redukcija ljutike, vina i sirćeta, i hladan puter umućen komad po komad. Bez žumanaca: puter drži sam sebe.
Iu · warm butter emulsion, no yolkIu · topla emulzija putera, bez žumanacaModern practice: Nantes, around 1900 (not in Escoffier 1907)Savremena praksa: Nant, oko 1900. (nema ga kod Eskofijea 1907)
MethodPostupak
  1. Chop the shallot very fine and reduce it with the wine and vinegar until a few spoonfuls are left.Ljutiku iseckaj vrlo sitno i redukuj je sa vinom i sirćetom dok ne ostane nekoliko kašika.
  2. Low heat. Whisk in the cold butter, a few cubes at a time, each lot almost melted before the next.Tiha vatra. Umuti hladan puter, po nekoliko kockica, svaku turu skoro otopljenu pre sledeće.
  3. Never let it boil: it should be creamy, never oily.Nikad ne sme da proključa: treba da bude kremast, nikad uljast.
  4. Season; strain it for a smooth sauce, or leave the shallot in, the Nantes way.Začini; procedi za gladak sos, ili ostavi ljutiku, kako se radi u Nantu.
  5. Hold it warm, at about 50 °C, in a thermos or a warm bain-marie.Drži ga toplim, na oko 50 °C, u termosu ili toplom vodenom kupatilu.
TodayDanas
  • A few spoons of cream reduced into the base make it steadier for a whole service. Purists leave it out.Nekoliko kašika pavlake, redukovanih u osnovi, čine ga stabilnijim za ceo servis. Puristi je izostavljaju.
  • Beurre rouge: the same with red wine.Beurre rouge: isto, sa crnim vinom.
  • Nantes tells it as an accident: around 1900, Clémence Lefeuvre made a béarnaise and left out the yolks.Nant ga priča kao slučajnost: oko 1900. Klemans Lefevr je pravila bearnez i izostavila žumanca.
Asket versionAsket verzija
  • The reduction is the acid, and it is the pantry part: make it ahead, keep it in the fridge, the butter goes in at service.Redukcija je kiselina i ona je deo za ostavu: napravi je unapred, drži u frižideru, puter ide pri servisu.
  • Salted butter brings its own salt: taste before salting.Slan puter donosi svoju so: probaj pre soljenja.
When reality does not follow the recipeKad stvarnost ne prati recept
  • It turned oilyPostao je uljast Too hot. Off the heat, whisk in a spoon of cold water or a cold piece of butter. If it is gone, reduce a spoon of cream and whisk the broken sauce into it.Prevruće. Skloni sa vatre i umuti kašiku hladne vode ili hladan komad putera. Ako je propao, redukuj kašiku pavlake i u nju umuti presečeni sos.
  • It set, grainyStegao se, zrnast je Too cold. Warm it gently over a bain-marie, whisking.Prehladan. Zagrej ga polako na vodenom kupatilu, uz mućenje.
  • For a whole serviceZa ceo servis A spoon of reduced cream in the base, a thermos at about 50 °C.Kašika redukovane pavlake u osnovi, termos na oko 50 °C.
  • With herbsSa biljem Chives, dill or sorrel stirred in at the end.Vlasac, mirođija ili kiseljak, umešani na kraju.
StorageČuvanje
  • Made for one service; not chilled and reheated as a sauce. What is left sets into a flavoured butter for finishing fish or vegetables: fridge, 3 days.Pravi se za jedan servis; ne hladi se pa podgreva kao sos. Ostatak se stegne u aromatičan puter za završavanje ribe ili povrća: frižider, 3 dana.
Sauces made from itSosovi koji iz njega nastaju
  • Beurre rougeBeurre rouge red wine instead of whitecrno vino umesto belog
  • Herb beurre blancBeurre blanc sa biljem + chives, dill, sorrel+ vlasac, mirođija, kiseljak