BasicsOsnove · 02

Where every sauce
begins.Odakle počinje
svaki sos.

White, brown, fish and vegetable stock, and glaze. Escoffier does not salt his stocks either.Beli, smeđi, riblji i povrtni temeljac, i glas. Ni Eskofije ne soli temeljce.

1907 measures: 1 lb = 454 g · 1 oz = 28 g · 1 quart = 1.14 l · 1 pint = 0.57 l · 1 tablespoon ≈ 15 ml · 1 bottle ≈ 0.75 l.Mere iz 1907: 1 lb = 454 g · 1 oz = 28 g · 1 kvart = 1,14 l · 1 pinta = 0,57 l · 1 kašika ≈ 15 ml · 1 boca ≈ 0,75 l.

White stockBeli temeljacBrown stockSmeđi temeljacFish stockRiblji fumetVegetable stockPovrtni temeljacMeat glazeGlas
01

White stockBeli temeljac fond blanc

Pale, gelatinous stock of veal and poultry: the base of velouté and of the white sauces.Svetao, želatinozan temeljac od teletine i živine: osnova za velute i bele sosove.
Pantry → velouté, white sauces, soupsOstava → velute, beli sosovi, supeEscoffier, formula 10Eskofije, formula 10
Original · Escoffier, formula 10Original · Eskofije, formula 10
Yield: Prinos: 4 quarts (4.5 l)4 kvarta (4,5 l)
1907metricmetrički
8 lb3.6 kg3,6 kgshin of veal, or lean fresh veal trimmingsteleće kolenice ili čistih obrezaka teletine
1–2raw poultry carcassessirova kostura živine
12 oz340 gcarrotsšargarepe
6 oz170 gonions, stuck with a clovecrnog luka, sa 1 karanfilićem
4 oz113 gleeks, tied with a stick of celerypraziluka, vezanog sa 1 rebrom celera
1 oz28 gparsley, with 1 bay leaf and a small sprig of thyme (faggot)peršuna, sa 1 lovorovim listom i grančicom timijana (buket)
5½ quarts5½ kvarta6.25 l6,25 lcold waterhladne vode
  1. Bone and tie the meat; break the bones as small as possible and cover them with the cold water.Meso odvoji od kostiju i veži; kosti izlomi što sitnije i prelij hladnom vodom.
  2. Bring to the boil directly over the fire, skim carefully, then move to the side of the stove and cook very gently for 5 hours.Na jakoj vatri dovedi do ključanja, pažljivo oberi penu, pa pomeri na ivicu šporeta i kuvaj vrlo tiho 5 sati.
  3. Pour into another pan, add the meat and vegetables, and top up with water to keep 5 quarts (5.7 l).Prelij u drugu šerpu, dodaj meso i povrće i dopuni vodom da ostane 5 kvartova (5,7 l).
  4. Bring back to the boil and simmer slowly 3 hours more.Ponovo dovedi do ključanja, pa krčkaj lagano još 3 sata.
  5. Remove all the fat and strain through a fine sieve.Skini svu masnoću i procedi kroz gusto sito.
  • The stock should be as gelatinous as possible: bones well broken, at least 8 hours of cooking.Temeljac treba da bude što želatinozniji: kosti dobro izlomljene, najmanje 8 sati kuvanja.
  • Veal stock is never as clear as beef stock, but it must not be cloudy.Teleći temeljac nikad nije bistar kao goveđi, ali ne sme da bude mutan.
  • Poultry stock: add two old hens together with the meat.Pileći temeljac: uz meso se dodaju dve stare kokoške.
TodayDanas
  • Many kitchens now use chicken wings, necks and backs instead of veal: enough gelatine and a shorter cooking time, 3–4 hours.Mnoge kuhinje danas umesto teletine koriste pileća krila, vratove i leđa: dovoljno želatina i kraće kuvanje, 3–4 sata.
  • For a clearer stock, blanch the bones first: bring to the boil, throw the water away, rinse.Za bistriji temeljac kosti prvo blanširaj: prokuvaj, baci vodu, isperi.
  • Never let it boil hard: fat and proteins emulsify and the stock turns cloudy. The surface should barely tremble.Ne sme nikad jako da ključa: masnoća i belančevine se emulguju i temeljac se zamuti. Površina treba jedva da se mreška.
Asket versionAsket verzija
  • No salt and no acid in the pantry: both go in only when the sauce for a dish is made (salt by the table, acid 1 %).Bez soli i bez kiseline u ostavi: oboje ide tek kad se pravi sos za jelo (so po tablici, kiselina 1 %).
  • Write down the yield: how many litres from how many kilograms of bones. That number belongs in the costing.Zapiši prinos: koliko litara iz koliko kilograma kostiju. Taj broj ide u kalkulaciju.
  • Zero waste: the same bones with half the water for 4 more hours give a remouillage, a weak second stock for cooking vegetables or for the next stock.Bez otpada: iste kosti sa pola vode još 4 sata daju remuj (remouillage), slab drugi temeljac za kuvanje povrća ili za sledeći temeljac.
When reality does not follow the recipeKad stvarnost ne prati recept
  • No veal bonesNema telećih kostiju Chicken wings, necks and backs, about 1 kg per litre of water, 3–4 hours.Pileća krila, vratovi i leđa, oko 1 kg na litar vode, 3–4 sata.
  • Only two hoursImaš samo dva sata Chop the bones smaller and use a pressure cooker: 60–90 minutes once it is up to pressure.Iseckaj kosti sitnije i koristi ekspres lonac: 60–90 minuta otkad podigne pritisak.
  • It does not set in the fridgeNe steže se u frižideru Too little gelatine: add chicken feet or a calf's foot next time, or reduce it.Premalo želatina: sledeći put dodaj pileće nogice ili teleću nogu, ili ga redukuj.
  • It is cloudyMutan je Cool, lift off the fat, and clarify like a consommé (egg white and minced lean meat).Ohladi, skini masnoću i izbistri kao konsome (belance i mleveno nemasno meso).
  • 20 litres for a banquet20 litara za banket Same ratio; a tall narrow pot loses less to evaporation; keep it at a bare simmer on the lowest heat, or in a kettle or oven with temperature control; never leave an open flame unattended.Isti odnos; iz visokog i uskog lonca manje isparava; drži ga na jedva primetnom krčkanju na najslabijoj vatri, ili u kotlu ili rerni sa kontrolom temperature; otvoren plamen nikad ne ostavljaj bez nadzora.
StorageČuvanje
  • Cool fast: from 57 °C to 21 °C within 2 hours, then to 5 °C within another 4 hours (FDA Food Code). Shallow containers, an ice bath, stir now and then.Brzo hladi: sa 57 °C na 21 °C za 2 sata, pa do 5 °C za još 4 sata (FDA Food Code). Plitke posude, ledena kupka, povremeno promešaj.
  • Fridge: 3–4 days. Freezer: 2–3 months for best quality, labelled with the date. Bring to the boil before use.Frižider: 3–4 dana. Zamrzivač: 2–3 meseca za najbolji kvalitet, sa datumom. Pre upotrebe prokuvaj.
02

Brown stockSmeđi temeljac fond brun · estouffade

Dark, clear stock of roasted bones and meat: the base of espagnole, demi-glace and glaze.Taman, bistar temeljac od pečenih kostiju i mesa: osnova za španjol, demiglas i glas.
Pantry → espagnole, demi-glace, glazeOstava → španjol, demiglas, glasEscoffier, formula 7Eskofije, formula 7
Original · Escoffier, formula 7Original · Eskofije, formula 7
Yield: Prinos: 4 quarts (4.5 l)4 kvarta (4,5 l)
1907metricmetrički
4 lb1.8 kg1,8 kgshin of beef, meat and bonegoveđe kolenice, meso i kost
4 lb1.8 kg1,8 kgshin of veal, meat and boneteleće kolenice, meso i kost
½ lb227 glean raw hamnemasne sirove šunke
½ lb227 gfresh pork rind, rinsed in tepid watersveže svinjske kožice, isprane mlakom vodom
¾ lb340 gcarrots, sliced and browned in butteršargarepe, iseckane i zapržene na puteru
¾ lb340 gonions, sliced and browned in buttercrnog luka, iseckanog i zaprženog na puteru
1faggot: parsley, a stick of celery, a sprig of thyme, a bay leafbuket: peršun, rebro celera, grančica timijana, lovorov list
5 quarts5 kvartova5.7 l5,7 lcold waterhladne vode
  1. Bone and tie the meat and keep it for the next day.Meso odvoji od kostiju, veži i ostavi za sutradan.
  2. Break the bones as finely as possible, sprinkle with a little stock fat and brown them in the oven, stirring.Kosti izlomi što sitnije, poprskaj s malo masti od temeljca i zapeci ih u rerni, uz mešanje.
  3. Put the bones, carrots, onions and faggot in a large pan with 5 quarts of cold water; bring to the boil, skim, wipe the rim and half-cover.Kosti, šargarepu, luk i buket stavi u veliku šerpu sa 5 kvartova hladne vode; dovedi do ključanja, oberi penu, obriši ivicu i poklopi do pola.
  4. Simmer gently for 12 hours. Skim off the fat roughly, strain and cool.Krčkaj lagano 12 sati. Grubo skini masnoću, procedi i ohladi.
  5. Next day: brown the meat in a little stock fat, pour off all the fat, add ½ pint (0.28 l) of the stock, cover and reduce almost dry, turning the meat.Sutradan: meso zapeci na malo masti od temeljca, ocedi svu masnoću, dodaj ½ pinte (0,28 l) temeljca, poklopi i redukuj skoro do suva, okrećući meso.
  6. Add the rest of the bone stock, bring to the boil, then cook very slowly, uncovered, until the meat is done. Degrease and strain.Dodaj ostatak temeljca od kostiju, dovedi do ključanja, pa kuvaj vrlo polako, otklopljeno, dok se meso ne skuva. Skini masnoću i procedi.
  • Short of time, the meat can be cut into large cubes; it then needs about 1½ hours.Ako nema vremena, meso se može iseći na velike kocke; tada mu treba oko 1½ sat.
  • The stock is not salted.Temeljac se ne soli.
  • Finished, it should be a fine dark amber and transparent.Gotov treba da bude lepe tamne ćilibarne boje i providan.
  • The ham and rind are in the list, but the method does not say when they go in; we add them with the bones, for their gelatine.Šunka i kožica su u spisku, ali postupak ne kaže kada idu; mi ih stavljamo sa kostima, zbog želatina.
TodayDanas
  • Today mostly veal bones (knuckles, back) roasted at 200–220 °C until deep golden, with the mirepoix added for the last 15 minutes; 6–8 hours of simmering.Danas se uglavnom koriste teleće kosti (kolena, kičma) pečene na 200–220 °C do tamnozlatne boje, uz mirepoa poslednjih 15 minuta; 6–8 sati krčkanja.
  • A spoon of tomato paste browned on the bones (pinçage) adds colour and body; if it burns, the stock turns bitter.Kašika paradajz pirea zapečena na kostima (pinçage) daje boju i telo; ako zagori, temeljac je gorak.
  • Deglaze the roasting tray with water and add it to the pot: the brown crust is flavour.Pleh od pečenja deglasiraj vodom i dodaj u lonac: zapečena kora je ukus.
Asket versionAsket verzija
  • No salt and no acid in the pantry: both go in only when the sauce for a dish is made (salt by the table, acid 1 %).Bez soli i bez kiseline u ostavi: oboje ide tek kad se pravi sos za jelo (so po tablici, kiselina 1 %).
  • One recipe, one number: the same stock goes into every demi-glace and every brown sauce.Jedan recept, jedan broj: isti temeljac ide u svaki demiglas i svaki smeđi sos.
When reality does not follow the recipeKad stvarnost ne prati recept
  • No time for 12 hoursNema vremena za 12 sati Roast the bones as usual, then a pressure cooker for 1½–2 hours.Kosti zapeci kao inače, pa ekspres lonac 1½–2 sata.
  • No veal bonesNema telećih kostiju Beef bones plus chicken wings or a calf's foot for gelatine.Goveđe kosti uz pileća krila ili teleću nogu, zbog želatina.
  • It tastes bitterGorak je Bones or tomato paste burned. It cannot be fixed; next time roast to deep golden, not black.Kosti ili paradajz pire su zagoreli. Ne može da se popravi; sledeći put peci do tamnozlatne boje, ne do crne.
  • Thin, does not setRedak, ne steže se Reduce it, or add pork rind or a calf's foot next time, as Escoffier did.Redukuj ga, ili sledeći put dodaj svinjsku kožicu ili teleću nogu, kao Eskofije.
StorageČuvanje
  • Cool fast: from 57 °C to 21 °C within 2 hours, then to 5 °C within another 4 hours (FDA Food Code). Shallow containers, an ice bath, stir now and then.Brzo hladi: sa 57 °C na 21 °C za 2 sata, pa do 5 °C za još 4 sata (FDA Food Code). Plitke posude, ledena kupka, povremeno promešaj.
  • Fridge: 3–4 days. Freezer: 2–3 months for best quality, labelled with the date. Bring to the boil before use.Frižider: 3–4 dana. Zamrzivač: 2–3 meseca za najbolji kvalitet, sa datumom. Pre upotrebe prokuvaj.
03

Fish stockRiblji fumet fumet de poisson

A short, clean stock of white fish bones: twenty minutes, not more.Kratak, čist temeljac od kostiju bele ribe: dvadeset minuta, ne duže.
Pantry → fish velouté, fish sauces, soupsOstava → riblji velute, riblji sosovi, supeEscoffier, formula 11Eskofije, formula 11
Original · Escoffier, formula 11Original · Eskofije, formula 11
Yield: Prinos: 4 quarts (4.5 l)4 kvarta (4,5 l)
1907metricmetrički
4 lb1.8 kg1,8 kgtrimmings and bones of sole or whitingobrezaka i kostiju lista ili merlanga
½ lb227 gonions, sliced and blanchedcrnog luka, narezanog i blanširanog
2 oz57 gparsley root or stalksperšunovog korena ili peteljki
½ bottle½ boce≈ 375 mlwhite winebelog vina
1lemon, the juicelimun, sok
4 quarts4 kvarta4.5 l4,5 lcold waterhladne vode
butter for the panputer za dno šerpe
  1. Butter the bottom of a thick, tall pan; put in the onions and parsley, and the fish on top.Namaži puterom dno debele, visoke šerpe; stavi luk i peršun, a preko ribu.
  2. Add the lemon juice, cover and set on the fire so the fish gives up its juices; shake the pan now and then.Dodaj limunov sok, poklopi i stavi na vatru da riba pusti sok; povremeno protresi šerpu.
  3. Add the wine and reduce, uncovered, by about half.Dodaj vino i redukuj, otklopljeno, otprilike na pola.
  4. Add the cold water, bring to the boil and skim.Dodaj hladnu vodu, dovedi do ključanja i oberi penu.
  5. Cook for 20 minutes only, on a moderate fire, and strain.Kuvaj samo 20 minuta na umerenoj vatri i procedi.
  • Only sole or whiting; if short, up to a quarter may be brill bones. Avoid other fish.Samo list ili merlang; ako ih nema dovoljno, do četvrtine mogu biti kosti romba. Druge ribe izbegavati.
  • Cooking longer spoils the flavour.Duže kuvanje kvari ukus.
  • Fish stock with red wine (formula 12): 4 lb (1.8 kg) bones, ¾ lb (340 g) white onions, 3 oz (85 g) parsley stalks, 2 bay leaves, 4 sprigs of thyme, 4 cloves of garlic, 2 bottles of red wine, 5 pints (2.8 l) of water; 20–30 minutes.Riblji temeljac sa crnim vinom (formula 12): 4 lb (1,8 kg) kostiju, ¾ lb (340 g) blagog crnog luka (bele sorte), 3 oz (85 g) peršunovih peteljki, 2 lovorova lista, 4 grančice timijana, 4 čena belog luka, 2 boce crnog vina, 5 pinti (2,8 l) vode; 20–30 minuta.
TodayDanas
  • Use lean white fish: sea bass, bream, sole, turbot. Oily fish (mackerel, salmon, sardine) make it heavy and strong.Koristi posnu belu ribu: brancin, oradu, list, romb kvrgaš. Masna riba (skuša, losos, sardela) daje težak i jak ukus.
  • Remove gills and blood, and soak the bones in iced water: that is what keeps it clean.Ukloni škrge i krv i potopi kosti u ledenu vodu: tako temeljac ostaje čist.
  • Most kitchens today stay under 30 minutes.Većina kuhinja ga danas kuva kraće od 30 minuta.
Asket versionAsket verzija
  • Escoffier's lemon and wine are acid. In the pantry version we leave out the lemon and keep only the reduced wine; the 1 % acid goes in at the sauce.Eskofijeov limun i vino su kiselina. U verziji za ostavu izostavljamo limun i ostavljamo samo redukovano vino; kiselina od 1 % ide tek u sos.
  • No salt in the pantry.Bez soli u ostavi.
When reality does not follow the recipeKad stvarnost ne prati recept
  • No sole or whitingNema lista ni merlanga On the Adriatic: heads and bones of sea bass, bream or grouper, gills out.Na Jadranu: glave i kosti brancina, orade ili kirnje, bez škrga.
  • The fishmonger has no bonesRibarnica nema kostiju Shells and heads of langoustines or prawns, toasted, 20–30 minutes: a different, deeper stock.Ljušture i glave škampa ili kozica, kratko zapečene, 20–30 minuta: drugačiji, dublji temeljac.
  • Bitter, tastes of iodineGorak, oseća se jod Cooked too long, or gills and blood were left in.Kuvan predugo, ili su ostale škrge i krv.
  • CloudyMutan Do not stir and do not press the bones when straining; strain through muslin.Ne mešaj i ne pritiskaj kosti pri ceđenju; procedi kroz gazu.
StorageČuvanje
  • Cool fast: from 57 °C to 21 °C within 2 hours, then to 5 °C within another 4 hours (FDA Food Code). Shallow containers, an ice bath, stir now and then.Brzo hladi: sa 57 °C na 21 °C za 2 sata, pa do 5 °C za još 4 sata (FDA Food Code). Plitke posude, ledena kupka, povremeno promešaj.
  • Fridge: 1–2 days. Freezer: 2–3 months for best quality, labelled with the date. Bring to the boil before use.Frižider: 1–2 dana. Zamrzivač: 2–3 meseca za najbolji kvalitet, sa datumom. Pre upotrebe prokuvaj.
04

Vegetable stockPovrtni temeljac fond de légumes

Escoffier has no vegetable stock; his lean (Lenten) stock is fish. This is the way it is done today.Eskofije nema povrtni temeljac; njegov posni temeljac je riblji. Ovako se radi danas.
Pantry → vegetable dishes, soups, risottoOstava → jela od povrća, supe, rižotoModern practice (not in Escoffier)Savremena praksa (nema je kod Eskofijea)
MethodPostupak
  1. Cut the vegetables small (6–12 mm): the cooking is short.Povrće iseci sitnije (6–12 mm): kuvanje je kratko.
  2. Sweat briefly in a little oil without colour (or roast at 200 °C for a brown stock).Kratko izdinstaj na malo ulja bez boje (ili zapeci na 200 °C za smeđi temeljac).
  3. Add cold water, bring to the boil, simmer gently 45 minutes.Dodaj hladnu vodu, dovedi do ključanja i krčkaj lagano 45 minuta.
  4. Strain without pressing the vegetables.Procedi bez pritiskanja povrća.
TodayDanas
  • Leave out cabbage, cauliflower and broccoli (sulphur, they take over), beetroot (colour) and potato (starch, cloudiness).Ne stavljaj kupus, karfiol i brokoli (sumpor, preuzmu ukus), cveklu (boja) ni krompir (skrob, mutnoća).
  • Longer than an hour gives a flat, stewed taste.Duže od sat vremena daje bljutav, prekuvan ukus.
Asket versionAsket verzija
  • No salt and no acid in the pantry: both go in only when the sauce for a dish is made (salt by the table, acid 1 %).Bez soli i bez kiseline u ostavi: oboje ide tek kad se pravi sos za jelo (so po tablici, kiselina 1 %).
  • This is where the trimmings go: carrot peel, leek ends, parsley stalks, fennel and tomato trimmings.Ovde idu obresci: kore šargarepe, krajevi praziluka, peteljke peršuna, obresci komorača i paradajza.
When reality does not follow the recipeKad stvarnost ne prati recept
  • Tastes of nothingBez ukusa je Roast the vegetables first, or add dried mushrooms, a piece of kombu or a spoon of tomato paste for umami.Povrće prvo zapeci, ili dodaj sušene pečurke, komad kombua ili kašiku paradajz pirea za umami.
  • Needs to be clearTreba da bude bistar No starchy vegetables, do not stir, strain through muslin.Bez skrobnog povrća, ne mešaj, procedi kroz gazu.
StorageČuvanje
  • Cool fast: from 57 °C to 21 °C within 2 hours, then to 5 °C within another 4 hours (FDA Food Code). Shallow containers, an ice bath, stir now and then.Brzo hladi: sa 57 °C na 21 °C za 2 sata, pa do 5 °C za još 4 sata (FDA Food Code). Plitke posude, ledena kupka, povremeno promešaj.
  • Fridge: 3–4 days. Freezer: 2–3 months for best quality, labelled with the date. Bring to the boil before use.Frižider: 3–4 dana. Zamrzivač: 2–3 meseca za najbolji kvalitet, sa datumom. Pre upotrebe prokuvaj.
05

Meat glazeGlas glace de viande

Brown stock reduced until it coats a spoon: a few grams give a sauce depth and shine.Smeđi temeljac redukovan dok ne obloži kašiku: nekoliko grama daje sosu dubinu i sjaj.
Pantry → finishing saucesOstava → završavanje sosovaEscoffier, formula 15Eskofije, formula 15
Original · Escoffier, formula 15Original · Eskofije, formula 15
Yield: Prinos: not statednije navedeno
1907metricmetrički
brown stock (formula 7)smeđi temeljac (formula 7)
  1. Reduce the brown stock in a large pan directly over the fire.Smeđi temeljac redukuj u velikoj šerpi direktno na vatri.
  2. As it reduces, pour it into smaller pans, straining through muslin each time.Kako se redukuje, prelivaj ga u sve manje šerpe i svaki put procedi kroz gazu.
  3. Lower the fire gradually; finish slowly, until it coats a spoon evenly.Vatru postepeno smanjuj; završi polako, dok ravnomerno ne obloži kašiku.
Asket versionAsket verzija
  • No salt and no acid in the pantry: both go in only when the sauce for a dish is made (salt by the table, acid 1 %).Bez soli i bez kiseline u ostavi: oboje ide tek kad se pravi sos za jelo (so po tablici, kiselina 1 %).
When reality does not follow the recipeKad stvarnost ne prati recept
  • It burns at the endZagori na kraju The last stage must be slow, in a small pan, on a low flame.Poslednja faza mora biti spora, u maloj šerpi, na tihoj vatri.
StorageČuvanje
  • Sets hard when cold. Fridge: up to 7 days in a closed container; for longer, freeze it in small portions.Kad se ohladi, stegne se. Frižider: do 7 dana u zatvorenoj posudi; za duže, zamrzni ga u malim porcijama.
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