BasicsOsnove · 10

The probe,
not the finger.Sonda,
ne prst.

Core temperatures for meat, poultry and fish: how done, and how safe. Escoffier cooked by eye; these numbers are today's.Temperature jezgra za meso, živinu i ribu: koliko je pečeno, i koliko je bezbedno. Eskofije je kuvao odoka; ovi brojevi su današnji.

Meat and poultryMeso i živinaFish and shellfishRiba i plodovi mora
01

Meat and poultryMeso i živina cuisson · points de cuisson

The core temperature decides doneness, and safety. A probe, not the finger.Temperatura jezgra odlučuje o pečenju, i o bezbednosti. Sonda, ne prst.
Ars · the fire, measuredArs · vatra, izmerenaModern standards: USDA, FDA Food Code, McGeeSavremeni standardi: USDA, FDA Food Code, McGee
MethodPostupak
  1. The probe goes into the thickest part, away from bone and fat.Sonda ide u najdeblji deo, dalje od kosti i masti.
  2. Take it off the heat 3–5 °C before the target: it keeps rising while it rests (more in a hot place).Skloni sa vatre 3–5 °C pre cilja: temperatura raste i dok meso odmara (više na toplom mestu).
  3. Rest it: it cuts more cleanly and loses less juice.Odmori ga: lepše se seče i gubi manje soka.
  4. Colour and touch are not reliable (USDA). Measure.Boja i dodir nisu pouzdani (USDA). Meri.
TodayDanas
  • Safety minimums (FDA Food Code): whole steaks and chops 63 °C for 15 seconds; minced meat 68 °C for 17 seconds (USDA: 71 °C); poultry 74 °C, instantly.Bezbedni minimumi (FDA Food Code): celi odresci i kotleti 63 °C 15 sekundi; mleveno meso 68 °C 17 sekundi (USDA: 71 °C); živina 74 °C, odmah.
  • A whole, intact beef steak may be served rare when it is seared on all sides (surface 63 °C, colour change everywhere): the bacteria are on the surface. Not minced, not needled, not rolled, and not for highly susceptible guests.Ceo, neprobušen goveđi odrezak sme da se služi krvav kad je zapečen sa svih strana (površina 63 °C, promena boje svuda): bakterije su na površini. Ne mleveno, ne probušeno iglama, ne rolovano, i ne za osetljive goste.
  • Roasts follow a time and temperature table: the same safety at 54.4 °C held 112 minutes, 60 °C held 12 minutes, 62.8 °C held 4 minutes. Low and long is not less safe, if it is held long enough.Pečenja idu po tablici vremena i temperature: ista bezbednost na 54,4 °C držano 112 minuta, 60 °C držano 12 minuta, 62,8 °C držano 4 minuta. Nisko i dugo nije manje bezbedno, ako se drži dovoljno dugo.
  • Pork today: 63 °C and 3 minutes of rest (USDA), pink in the middle allowed.Svinjetina danas: 63 °C i 3 minuta odmora (USDA), ružičasto u sredini je dozvoljeno.
Asket versionAsket verzija
  • Our fire table: tender meat to 55–60 °C in the core; tough meat long at 70 °C or more, or sous vide at 62–68 °C for much longer.Naša tablica vatre: mekano meso do 55–60 °C u jezgru; tvrdo meso dugo na 70 °C i više, ili sous vide na 62–68 °C mnogo duže.
  • Every recipe in the Lab has its core temperature written down. A dish without one is not finished.Svaki recept u Labu ima zapisanu temperaturu jezgra. Jelo bez nje nije završeno.
When reality does not follow the recipeKad stvarnost ne prati recept
  • No thermometerNema termometra Buy one before the next service. The finger test is a guess.Kupi ga pre sledećeg servisa. Test prstom je nagađanje.
  • Guest wants a rare burgerGost želi krvav burger Our rule: minced meat is not served rare, at least 68 °C for 17 seconds (FDA). Or a whole steak, seared, chopped to order.Naše pravilo: mleveno meso se ne služi krvavo, najmanje 68 °C 17 sekundi (FDA). Ili ceo odrezak, zapečen, iseckan po porudžbini.
  • Overshot by 5 °CPrešao 5 °C It cannot be undone. Slice it thin, sauce it, and pull the next one earlier.Ne može da se vrati. Iseci ga tanko, dodaj sos, a sledeći skloni ranije.
  • Banquet, 200 coversBanket, 200 porcija Cook to the table, hold hot at 57 °C or above (FDA hot holding) and slice to order.Peci po tablici, drži toplo na 57 °C ili više (FDA, toplo držanje) i seci po porudžbini.
  • Children, pregnant guests, the elderlyDeca, trudnice, stariji gosti Steaks to at least 63 °C, poultry to 74 °C. The consumer advisory exists for this.Odresci najmanje do 63 °C, živina do 74 °C. Upozorenje na meniju postoji zbog ovoga.
StorageČuvanje
  • Hot holding at 57 °C or above; cooling from 57 to 21 °C in 2 hours and to 5 °C in 4 more (FDA Food Code).Toplo držanje na 57 °C ili više; hlađenje sa 57 na 21 °C za 2 sata i do 5 °C za još 4 (FDA Food Code).
02

Fish and shellfishRiba i plodovi mora cuisson du poisson

Fish is done far lower than meat. Raw and barely cooked fish has one more rule: it is frozen first.Riba je gotova na mnogo nižoj temperaturi od mesa. Sirova i jedva kuvana riba ima još jedno pravilo: prvo se zamrzne.
Ars · the fire, measuredArs · vatra, izmerenaModern standards: McGee, FDA, EU Regulation 1276/2011Savremeni standardi: McGee, FDA, Uredba EU 1276/2011
MethodPostupak
  1. A thin probe into the thickest part of the fillet or along the backbone of a whole fish.Tanka sonda u najdeblji deo fileta ili uz kičmu cele ribe.
  2. Take it off 2–3 °C early: fish is thin and carries over quickly.Skloni 2–3 °C ranije: riba je tanka i brzo dogreva.
  3. Done when the flakes just separate and the middle has turned from glassy to opaque.Gotova je kad se listići tek odvajaju, a sredina je od staklaste postala neprozirna.
TodayDanas
  • Fish served raw or cooked below 60 °C (crudo, tartare, carpaccio, marinated, salmon at 50 °C) is frozen first: −20 °C for at least 24 hours, or −35 °C for 15 hours (EU Regulation 1276/2011). Farmed fish that the supplier documents as parasite-free is exempt.Riba koja se služi sirova ili kuvana ispod 60 °C (krudo, tartar, karpačo, marinirana, losos na 50 °C) prvo se zamrzne: −20 °C najmanje 24 sata, ili −35 °C 15 sati (Uredba EU 1276/2011). Izuzeta je gajena riba za koju dobavljač dokumentuje da je bez parazita.
  • Shellfish: prawns, lobster, crab and scallops until the flesh is pearly and opaque; clams, mussels and oysters until the shells open (FoodSafety.gov).Školjke i rakovi: škampi, jastog, rakovi i kapesante dok meso ne postane sedefasto i neprozirno; dagnje, kućice i kamenice dok se ljušture ne otvore (FoodSafety.gov).
  • Marinating in lemon or vinegar does not cook fish safely: it changes the look, not the parasites.Mariniranje u limunu ili sirćetu ne kuva ribu bezbedno: menja izgled, ne parazite.
Asket versionAsket verzija
  • Our fire table: tuna and salmon about 50 °C, white fish 55–60 °C (McGee; Eleven Madison Park cooks halibut at 62 °C for 7 minutes).Naša tablica vatre: tuna i losos oko 50 °C, bela riba 55–60 °C (McGee; Eleven Madison Park kuva halibut na 62 °C 7 minuta).
  • Write on the label of every fish for crudo: frozen on, at what temperature, until when.Na etiketu svake ribe za krudo napiši: zamrznuto kada, na kojoj temperaturi, do kada.
When reality does not follow the recipeKad stvarnost ne prati recept
  • No blast freezerNema šok-zamrzivača A home or standard freezer does not reliably reach −20 °C in the core in time. Buy fish for raw service already frozen, with the documents.Kućni ili običan zamrzivač ne dostiže pouzdano −20 °C u jezgru na vreme. Ribu za sirovo služenje kupuj već zamrznutu, sa dokumentacijom.
  • Dry, chalky fishSuva, kredasta riba Overcooked past 60 °C. Pull it at 55 °C next time; a sauce with fat helps today.Prepečena preko 60 °C. Sledeći put skloni na 55 °C; danas pomaže sos sa masnoćom.
  • White curd on salmonBela pena na lososu That is albumin pushed out by fast heat. Lower heat, or a brine of 6–7 % for 15 minutes before cooking.To je albumin koji izbaci jaka vatra. Slabija vatra, ili salamura od 6–7 % 15 minuta pre pečenja.
StorageČuvanje
  • Fresh fish: on ice, 0–2 °C, cooked within 1–2 days. Shellfish alive until cooking, cool and damp, never in water or sealed.Sveža riba: na ledu, 0–2 °C, skuvana za 1–2 dana. Školjke žive do kuvanja, na hladnom i vlažnom, nikad u vodi ni zatvorene.
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