BasicsOsnove · 03

Five mothers
and their families.Pet matičnih
i njihove porodice.

Roux first, then the five leading sauces as professional kitchens teach them after Escoffier, with demi-glace and béarnaise. Each one is the start of a family.Prvo zaprška, pa pet matičnih sosova kako ih profesionalne kuhinje uče po Eskofijeu, uz demiglas i bearnez. Svaki je početak jedne porodice.

1907 measures: 1 lb = 454 g · 1 oz = 28 g · 1 quart = 1.14 l · 1 pint = 0.57 l · 1 tablespoon ≈ 15 ml · 1 bottle ≈ 0.75 l.Mere iz 1907: 1 lb = 454 g · 1 oz = 28 g · 1 kvart = 1,14 l · 1 pinta = 0,57 l · 1 kašika ≈ 15 ml · 1 boca ≈ 0,75 l.

RouxZaprškaBéchamelBešamelVeloutéVeluteEspagnoleŠpanjolDemi-glaceDemiglasTomato sauceParadajz sosHollandaiseHolandezBéarnaiseBearnez
BéchamelMornaySoubiseNantuaCreamVeloutéAllemandeSuprêmeBercyEspagnoleDemi-glaceBordelaiseRobertChasseurMadèreTomatoProvençalePortugaiseHollandaiseBéarnaiseChoronMaltaiseMousseline
BešamelMornaySoubiseNantuaKremVeluteAllemandeSuprêmeBercyŠpanjolDemiglasBordelaiseRobertChasseurMaderaParadajzProvansalskiPortugalskiHolandezBearnezŠoronMalteškiMuslin
01

RouxZaprška roux

Butter and flour cooked together. The same thing our kitchens call zaprška, only with butter.Puter i brašno kuvani zajedno. Isto ono što naše kuhinje zovu zaprška, samo na puteru.
Binds Iu: velouté, béchamel, espagnoleVezuje Iu: velute, bešamel, španjolEscoffier, formulas 19–21Eskofije, formule 19–21
Original · Escoffier, formulas 19–21Original · Eskofije, formule 19–21
Yield: Prinos: about 1 lb (450 g)oko 1 lb (450 g)
1907metricmetrički
8 oz227 gclarified butterprečišćenog putera
9 oz255 gbest-quality flournajboljeg brašna
  1. Brown: mix in a very thick pan, set at the side of the stove or in a moderate oven, stir often. Ready when light brown and smelling of roasted hazelnut. Do not hurry it.Smeđa: sjedini puter i brašno u vrlo debeloj šerpi, stavi na ivicu šporeta ili u umerenu rernu i često mešaj. Gotova je kad je svetlo smeđa i miriše na prženi lešnik. Ne žuri.
  2. Pale: the same, but stop as soon as the colour begins to change.Svetla: isto, ali stani čim boja počne da se menja.
  3. White: a few minutes only, just to take away the taste of raw flour.Bela: samo nekoliko minuta, tek da nestane ukus sirovog brašna.
  • Only the starch binds. On a moderate fire a roux can bind about six times its weight of liquid.Vezuje samo skrob. Na umerenoj vatri zaprška može da veže oko šest puta veću težinu tečnosti.
  • Too strong a fire burns the starch: the sauce then needs two or three times as much roux, turns bitter and will not clear.Prejaka vatra pali skrob: sosu tada treba dva-tri puta više zaprške, gorak je i ne može da se izbistri.
  • Escoffier himself suggested binding with pure starch instead of flour.Eskofije je i sam predlagao da se umesto brašna veže čistim skrobom.
TodayDanas
  • In practice: about 60 g per litre for a thin cream soup, 90–100 g for a sauce, 120–150 g for a thick béchamel (lasagne, croquettes).U praksi: oko 60 g na litar za retku krem čorbu, 90–100 g za sos, 120–150 g za gust bešamel (lazanje, kroketi).
  • Cold roux into hot liquid, or warm roux into cold liquid: never both hot, that is how lumps form.Hladna zaprška u vruću tečnost, ili topla zaprška u hladnu: nikad obe vruće, tako nastaju grudve.
  • Our zaprška for čorba is often made with lard or oil and finished off the heat with paprika, so the paprika does not burn.Naša zaprška za čorbu često se pravi na masti ili ulju i završava van vatre alevom paprikom, da paprika ne zagori.
Asket versionAsket verzija
  • A roux is a pantry base too: cook a batch, cool it, keep it closed in the fridge and weigh it out by the litre.I zaprška je osnova iz ostave: skuvaj seriju, ohladi, drži je zatvorenu u frižideru i odmeravaj na litar.
When reality does not follow the recipeKad stvarnost ne prati recept
  • Gluten-freeBez glutena Rice flour instead of wheat flour in the same roux, or cornflour slaked in cold water (about 25 g per litre for a medium sauce).Pirinčano brašno umesto pšeničnog u istoj zaprški, ili kukuruzni skrob razmućen u hladnoj vodi (oko 25 g na litar za srednje gust sos).
  • LumpsGrudve Hand blender, or pass through a sieve.Štapni mikser, ili procedi kroz sito.
  • Too thin at the endPreredak na kraju Beurre manié: butter and flour 1 : 1 kneaded, whisked in in small pieces, then a few minutes of boiling.Beurre manié: puter i brašno 1 : 1 umešeni; umuti ih u malim komadićima, pa pusti da provri nekoliko minuta.
  • Too thickPregust Thin with hot liquid of the same kind (milk, stock).Razredi vrućom tečnošću iste vrste (mleko, temeljac).
StorageČuvanje
  • Cooked roux, cooled and closed: several weeks in the fridge.Skuvana zaprška, ohlađena i zatvorena: nekoliko nedelja u frižideru.
02

BéchamelBešamel sauce béchamel

Milk thickened with white roux. In Escoffier, with lean veal and onion; without veal for Lent.Mleko vezano belom zaprškom. Kod Eskofijea sa nemasnom teletinom i lukom; za post bez teletine.
Iu · white sauce on milkIu · beli sos na mlekuEscoffier, formula 28Eskofije, formula 28
Original · Escoffier, formula 28Original · Eskofije, formula 28
Yield: Prinos: 4 quarts (4.5 l)4 kvarta (4,5 l)
1907metricmetrički
1 lb454 gwhite rouxbele zaprške
4½ quarts4½ kvarta5.1 l5,1 lboiling milkključalog mleka
½ lb227 glean veal, cubednemasne teletine, na kocke
1onion, choppedcrni luk, iseckan
⅔ oz19 gsaltsoli
pinch of coarse pepper (mignonette), grated nutmeg, small sprig of thymeprstohvat grubo mlevenog bibera, rendani muskatni oraščić, grančica timijana
  1. Pour the boiling milk onto the almost cold roux and whisk well against lumps; bring to the boil, then move to the side of the stove.Ključalo mleko prelij preko skoro hladne zaprške i dobro izmuti da ne bude grudvi; dovedi do ključanja, pa pomeri na ivicu šporeta.
  2. Fry the veal in butter with the onion until it stiffens, without colour, and add it to the sauce with the salt and aromatics.Teletinu proprži na puteru sa lukom dok ne stegne, bez boje, i dodaj u sos sa solju i začinima.
  3. Cook slowly, about one hour in all; strain into a container and butter the top so no skin forms.Kuvaj polako, ukupno oko sat vremena; procedi u posudu i premaži površinu puterom da ne uhvati koru.
  • Quicker: boil the milk with the seasoning and aromatics, cover and let it infuse; pour onto the roux and cook only 15 minutes.Brže: prokuvaj mleko sa začinima, poklopi i ostavi da odstoji; prelij preko zaprške i kuvaj samo 15 minuta.
  • For Lent, leave out the veal.Za post izostavi teletinu.
TodayDanas
  • Today it is mostly made Escoffier's quicker way: milk infused with an onion studded with a bay leaf and a clove (oignon piqué), 20–30 minutes.Danas se uglavnom radi Eskofijeovim bržim načinom: mleko prožeto lukom u koji su zabodeni lovorov list i karanfilić (oignon piqué), 20–30 minuta.
Asket versionAsket verzija
  • Made to order, not kept long. Salt goes in at the end, for the dish, by the table (sauce 0.8–1.2 %). Escoffier's base is more lightly salted, about 0.4 %, because it is finished later.Pravi se po potrebi, ne čuva se dugo. So ide na kraju, za jelo, po tablici (sos 0,8–1,2 %). Eskofijeova osnova je manje slana, oko 0,4 %, jer se posle doteruje.
When reality does not follow the recipeKad stvarnost ne prati recept
  • Gluten-freeBez glutena Rice-flour roux in the same amount, or 25 g cornflour per litre slaked in cold milk.Zaprška od pirinčanog brašna u istoj količini, ili 25 g kukuruznog skroba na litar razmućenog u hladnom mleku.
  • No cow's milkBez kravljeg mleka Unsweetened oat or soya milk, oil or a plant fat for the roux.Nezaslađeno ovseno ili sojino mleko, ulje ili biljna mast za zapršku.
  • For lasagne or croquettesZa lazanje ili krokete Lasagne 120 g roux per litre; croquettes 150 g or more, cooled in a tray.Lazanje 120 g zaprške na litar; kroketi 150 g i više, a masa se hladi u plehu.
  • Skin on topKora na površini Butter on the surface, or cling film touching the sauce.Puter po površini, ili folija priljubljena uz sos.
StorageČuvanje
  • Cool fast: from 57 °C to 21 °C within 2 hours, then to 5 °C within another 4 hours (FDA Food Code). Shallow containers, an ice bath, stir now and then.Brzo hladi: sa 57 °C na 21 °C za 2 sata, pa do 5 °C za još 4 sata (FDA Food Code). Plitke posude, ledena kupka, povremeno promešaj.
  • Fridge: 3 days. It freezes poorly and may separate; whisk it smooth after thawing.Frižider: 3 dana. Loše podnosi zamrzavanje i može da se razdvoji; posle odmrzavanja dobro ga umuti.
Sauces made from itSosovi koji iz njega nastaju
  • MornayMornay + grated cheese (and a yolk)+ rendan sir (i žumance)
  • SoubiseSoubise + onion purée+ pire od luka
  • NantuaNantua + crayfish butter and cream+ puter od rakova i slatka pavlaka
  • Cream sauceKrem sos + cream+ slatka pavlaka
03

VeloutéVelute sauce veloutée

White stock thickened with pale roux: veal, chicken or fish, depending on the stock.Beli temeljac vezan svetlom zaprškom: teleći, pileći ili riblji, zavisno od temeljca.
Iu · white sauce on stockIu · beli sos na temeljcuEscoffier, formula 25Eskofije, formula 25
Original · Escoffier, formula 25Original · Eskofije, formula 25
Yield: Prinos: 4 quarts (4.5 l)4 kvarta (4,5 l)
1907metricmetrički
1 lb454 gpale rouxsvetle zaprške
5 quarts5 kvartova5.7 l5,7 lwhite veal stock, coldbelog telećeg temeljca, hladnog
1 oz28 gsaltsoli
pinch of nutmeg, pinch of white pepperprstohvat muskatnog oraščića, prstohvat belog bibera
¼ lb113 gwhite mushroom trimmingsobrezaka belih pečuraka
1 pint1 pinta0.57 l0,57 lwhite stock, added laterbelog temeljca, dodaje se kasnije
  1. Dissolve the roux in the cold stock and bring to the boil directly over the fire, stirring so it does not catch.Zapršku razmuti u hladnom temeljcu i direktno na vatri dovedi do ključanja, uz mešanje da ne zagori.
  2. Add salt, nutmeg, pepper and the mushroom trimmings; move to the side of the stove and skim slowly for 1½ hours.Dodaj so, muskat, biber i obreske pečuraka; pomeri na ivicu šporeta i polako skidaj penu 1½ sat.
  3. Strain through muslin into a smaller pan, add the pint of stock and skim for another half hour.Procedi kroz gazu u manju šerpu, dodaj pintu temeljca i skidaj penu još pola sata.
  4. Strain again and stir until cold.Ponovo procedi i mešaj dok se ne ohladi.
  • No carrot, onion or faggot: the stock should be fragrant enough on its own.Bez šargarepe, luka i buketa: temeljac treba sam da bude dovoljno mirisan.
  • The mushroom trimmings go into the velouté, not the stock: in the stock they would blacken it.Obresci pečuraka idu u velute, ne u temeljac: u temeljcu bi ga zacrnili.
TodayDanas
  • Chicken velouté on chicken stock, fish velouté on fish stock: the method is the same, the fish one cooks 20–30 minutes.Pileći velute na pilećem temeljcu, riblji na ribljem: postupak je isti, riblji se kuva 20–30 minuta.
Asket versionAsket verzija
  • No salt and no acid in the pantry: both go in only when the sauce for a dish is made (salt by the table, acid 1 %).Bez soli i bez kiseline u ostavi: oboje ide tek kad se pravi sos za jelo (so po tablici, kiselina 1 %).
  • Escoffier salts the base lightly (about 0.6 %); we salt only at the end, for the dish.Eskofije osnovu blago soli (oko 0,6 %); mi solimo tek na kraju, za jelo.
When reality does not follow the recipeKad stvarnost ne prati recept
  • Only 45 minutesSamo 45 minuta Hot stock onto cold roux, 30–45 minutes, strain well.Vruć temeljac na hladnu zapršku, 30–45 minuta, dobro procedi.
  • Cream soup from itKrem čorba od njega Thin with stock about 1 : 1, add the puréed vegetable, finish with cream.Razredi temeljcem otprilike 1 : 1, dodaj propasirano povrće, završi slatkom pavlakom.
  • Gluten-freeBez glutena Rice-flour roux, or cornflour slaked in cold stock.Zaprška od pirinčanog brašna, ili kukuruzni skrob razmućen u hladnom temeljcu.
StorageČuvanje
  • Cool fast: from 57 °C to 21 °C within 2 hours, then to 5 °C within another 4 hours (FDA Food Code). Shallow containers, an ice bath, stir now and then.Brzo hladi: sa 57 °C na 21 °C za 2 sata, pa do 5 °C za još 4 sata (FDA Food Code). Plitke posude, ledena kupka, povremeno promešaj.
  • Fridge: 3 days.Frižider: 3 dana.
Sauces made from itSosovi koji iz njega nastaju
  • Allemande (parisienne)Allemande (parisienne) + yolks, mushroom liquor, lemon+ žumanca, sok pečuraka, limun
  • SuprêmeSuprême chicken velouté + creampileći velute + slatka pavlaka
  • BercyBercy fish velouté + shallot, white wineriblji velute + ljutika, belo vino
04

EspagnoleŠpanjol sauce espagnole

Brown stock bound with brown roux and skimmed for hours, with tomato and mirepoix.Smeđi temeljac vezan smeđom zaprškom i satima čišćen od pene, sa paradajzom i mirepoom.
Iu · brown sauce, the way to demi-glaceIu · smeđi sos, put do demiglasaEscoffier, formula 22Eskofije, formula 22
Original · Escoffier, formula 22Original · Eskofije, formula 22
Yield: Prinos: 4 quarts (4.5 l)4 kvarta (4,5 l)
1907metricmetrički
1 lb454 gbrown rouxsmeđe zaprške
6 quarts6 kvartova6.8 l6,8 lbrown stocksmeđeg temeljca
1 quart1 kvart1.1 l1,1 lbrown stock, added while skimmingsmeđeg temeljca, dodaje se tokom skidanja pene
2 lb900 gfresh tomatoes, roughly cut (or purée)svežeg paradajza, grubo isečenog (ili pire)
about 1 lboko 1 lb450 gmirepoix (his formula 228)mirepoa (njegova formula 228)
  1. Dissolve the roux in the stock in a tall, thick pan and stir over a strong fire until it boils.Zapršku razmuti u temeljcu u visokoj, debeloj šerpi i mešaj direktno na vatri dok ne provri.
  2. Move to the side of the stove and tilt the pan slightly, so it boils at one point only; the impurities gather and are skimmed off.Pomeri na ivicu šporeta i malo nagni šerpu, da ključa samo na jednom mestu; nečistoće se skupljaju i skidaju.
  3. Two or three times, strain into a clean pan and add part of the extra quart of stock.Dva-tri puta procedi u čistu šerpu i dodaj deo dodatnog kvarta temeljca.
  4. When the sauce begins to clear, about 2 hours before the last straining, add the tomatoes and mirepoix.Kad sos počne da se bistri, oko 2 sata pre poslednjeg ceđenja, dodaj paradajz i mirepoa.
  5. Reduce until it measures 4 quarts strained; stir until cold so no skin forms.Redukuj dok ne ostanu 4 kvarta proceđenog sosa; mešaj dok se ne ohladi, da ne uhvati koru.
  • With a flour roux, about 6 hours. Common practice: 6–8 hours the first day; the second day add half its volume of stock and skim a few more hours.Sa zaprškom od brašna oko 6 sati. Uobičajeno: 6–8 sati prvog dana; drugog dana dodati pola njegove zapremine temeljca i još nekoliko sati skidati penu.
  • Only strong, clear stock with a definite taste, and great care with the roux.Samo jak, bistar temeljac izraženog ukusa, i velika pažnja sa zaprškom.
TodayDanas
  • Rarely served on its own today: it is the step on the way to demi-glace.Danas se retko služi samostalno: to je korak na putu do demiglasa.
Asket versionAsket verzija
  • No salt and no acid in the pantry: both go in only when the sauce for a dish is made (salt by the table, acid 1 %).Bez soli i bez kiseline u ostavi: oboje ide tek kad se pravi sos za jelo (so po tablici, kiselina 1 %).
When reality does not follow the recipeKad stvarnost ne prati recept
  • No time for two daysNema vremena za dva dana Strong, gelatinous stock, a well-cooked roux, tomato and mirepoix from the start: about one hour (Escoffier's own short way, with a starch roux).Jak, želatinozan temeljac, dobro skuvana zaprška, paradajz i mirepoa od početka: oko sat vremena (Eskofijeov kratki put, sa zaprškom od skroba).
  • Murky, will not clearMutan, ne bistri se The roux was burned or the stock was weak. Strain, skim longer, and change pans.Zaprška je zagorela ili je temeljac bio slab. Procedi, duže skidaj penu i menjaj šerpe.
StorageČuvanje
  • Cool fast: from 57 °C to 21 °C within 2 hours, then to 5 °C within another 4 hours (FDA Food Code). Shallow containers, an ice bath, stir now and then.Brzo hladi: sa 57 °C na 21 °C za 2 sata, pa do 5 °C za još 4 sata (FDA Food Code). Plitke posude, ledena kupka, povremeno promešaj.
  • Fridge: 4–5 days; freezes well.Frižider: 4–5 dana; dobro se zamrzava.
05

Demi-glaceDemiglas demi-glace

Espagnole and brown stock reduced together and finished with sherry.Španjol i smeđi temeljac redukovani zajedno i završeni šerijem.
Iu · base of all the small brown saucesIu · osnova svih malih smeđih sosovaEscoffier, formula 23Eskofije, formula 23
Original · Escoffier, formula 23Original · Eskofije, formula 23
Yield: Prinos: about 1 quart (1.1 l)oko 1 kvart (1,1 l)
1907metricmetrički
1 quart1 kvart1.1 l1,1 lespagnolešpanjola
1 quart1 kvart1.1 l1,1 lfirst-class brown stockprvoklasnog smeđeg temeljca
1/10 quart1/10 kvarta0.11 l0,11 lexcellent sherry, at the endodličnog šerija, na kraju
  1. Reduce the espagnole and stock together to 9/10 of a quart.Španjol i temeljac zajedno redukuj na 9/10 kvarta.
  2. Strain into a bain-marie.Procedi u posudu za vodeno kupatilo.
  3. Off the heat, finish with the sherry; cover or butter the top so no skin forms.Van vatre dodaj šeri; poklopi ili premaži površinu puterom da ne uhvati koru.
  • It is the base of all the small brown sauces.To je osnova svih malih smeđih sosova.
TodayDanas
  • Many kitchens now skip the roux: brown veal stock reduced until it coats a spoon, sometimes bound with a little starch (jus lié). Lighter and clearer.Mnoge kuhinje danas preskaču zapršku: smeđi teleći temeljac redukovan dok ne obloži kašiku, ponekad vezan sa malo skroba (jus lié). Lakše i bistrije.
Asket versionAsket verzija
  • No salt and no acid in the pantry: both go in only when the sauce for a dish is made (salt by the table, acid 1 %).Bez soli i bez kiseline u ostavi: oboje ide tek kad se pravi sos za jelo (so po tablici, kiselina 1 %).
  • The sherry goes in when the sauce for the dish is made, not in the pantry.Šeri ide kad se pravi sos za jelo, ne u ostavu.
When reality does not follow the recipeKad stvarnost ne prati recept
  • No espagnoleNema španjola Reduce brown stock to a quarter and thicken lightly with cornflour slaked in cold water (jus lié).Smeđi temeljac redukuj na četvrtinu i lagano veži kukuruznim skrobom razmućenim u hladnoj vodi (jus lié).
  • Too salty after reducingPreslan posle redukcije That is why the pantry stock has no salt. Thin with unsalted stock; reduce less next time.Zato temeljac u ostavi nema soli. Razredi neslanim temeljcem; sledeći put redukuj manje.
StorageČuvanje
  • Cool fast: from 57 °C to 21 °C within 2 hours, then to 5 °C within another 4 hours (FDA Food Code). Shallow containers, an ice bath, stir now and then.Brzo hladi: sa 57 °C na 21 °C za 2 sata, pa do 5 °C za još 4 sata (FDA Food Code). Plitke posude, ledena kupka, povremeno promešaj.
  • Fridge: up to a week; freezes well in portions.Frižider: do nedelju dana; dobro se zamrzava u porcijama.
Sauces made from itSosovi koji iz njega nastaju
  • BordelaiseBordelaise + red wine, shallot, bone marrow+ crno vino, ljutika, koštana srž
  • RobertRobert + onion, white wine, mustard+ luk, belo vino, senf
  • ChasseurChasseur + mushrooms, white wine, tomato+ pečurke, belo vino, paradajz
  • MadèreMadera + Madeira+ madera
  • PoivradePoivrade + pepper, vinegar, mirepoix+ biber, sirće, mirepoa
06

Tomato sauceParadajz sos sauce tomate

Escoffier's tomato sauce has salted pork, flour and stock; today it is usually lighter.Eskofijeov paradajz sos ima slanu potrbušinu, brašno i temeljac; danas je obično lakši.
Iu · red sauceIu · crveni sosEscoffier, formula 29Eskofije, formula 29
Original · Escoffier, formula 29Original · Eskofije, formula 29
Yield: Prinos: 4 quarts (4.5 l)4 kvarta (4,5 l)
1907metricmetrički
5 oz140 gsalted pork belly, rather fatslane svinjske potrbušine, masnije
2 oz57 gbutterputera
6 oz170 gcarrots, dicedšargarepe, na kocke
6 oz170 gonions, dicedcrnog luka, na kocke
1 + 1bay leaf and small sprig of thymelovorov list i grančica timijana
5 oz140 gflourbrašna
10 lb4.5 kg4,5 kgraw tomatoes (or 4 quarts purée)svežeg paradajza (ili 4,5 l pasiranog)
2 quarts2 kvarta2.3 l2,3 lwhite stockbelog temeljca
½ oz14 gsaltsoli
1 oz28 gsugaršećera
1clove of garlic, crushed; a pinch of pepperčen belog luka, zgnječen; prstohvat bibera
  1. Fry the pork in the butter in a tall, thick pan until it has nearly melted.Potrbušinu prži na puteru u visokoj šerpi debelog dna dok se skoro ne istopi.
  2. Add carrots, onions and herbs and cook, stirring.Dodaj šargarepu, luk i začinsko bilje i prži uz mešanje.
  3. Add the flour and cook until it begins to brown.Dodaj brašno i prži dok ne počne da rumeni.
  4. Add tomatoes and stock, mix, bring to the boil; season and add the garlic.Dodaj paradajz i temeljac, promešaj, dovedi do ključanja; začini i dodaj beli luk.
  5. Cover and cook in a moderate oven for 1½ hours.Poklopi i kuvaj u umerenoj rerni 1½ sat.
  6. Pass through a sieve while boiling hot; butter the top.Propasiraj kroz sito dok je još vreo; premaži površinu puterom.
  • Tomato purée is made the same way, without flour and with only 1 pint (0.57 l) of stock.Paradajz pire se pravi isto, bez brašna i sa samo 1 pintom (0,57 l) temeljca.
TodayDanas
  • Today mostly without flour (the tomato thickens by reducing) and with olive oil instead of pork and butter; 45–90 minutes.Danas uglavnom bez brašna (paradajz se zgusne redukcijom) i sa maslinovim uljem umesto potrbušine i putera; 45–90 minuta.
Asket versionAsket verzija
  • Tomato brings its own acid: add none. Sugar only if the tomatoes are sour, by tasting. Salt at the end.Paradajz donosi svoju kiselinu: ne dodaje se nova. Šećer samo ako je paradajz kiseo, po probi. So na kraju.
When reality does not follow the recipeKad stvarnost ne prati recept
  • Winter, no good tomatoesZima, nema dobrog paradajza Tinned whole peeled tomatoes; same weight.Pelat iz konzerve; ista težina.
  • VegetarianVegetarijanski Leave out the pork and stock; olive oil and vegetable stock or water.Bez potrbušine i temeljca; maslinovo ulje i povrtni temeljac ili voda.
  • Too sourPreviše kiseo A pinch of sugar at a time, tasting; or cook a little longer.Prstohvat po prstohvat šećera, uz probu; ili kuvaj malo duže.
StorageČuvanje
  • Cool fast: from 57 °C to 21 °C within 2 hours, then to 5 °C within another 4 hours (FDA Food Code). Shallow containers, an ice bath, stir now and then.Brzo hladi: sa 57 °C na 21 °C za 2 sata, pa do 5 °C za još 4 sata (FDA Food Code). Plitke posude, ledena kupka, povremeno promešaj.
  • Fridge: 5 days. Freezer: 2–3 months for best quality, labelled with the date. Bring to the boil before use.Frižider: 5 dana. Zamrzivač: 2–3 meseca za najbolji kvalitet, sa datumom. Pre upotrebe prokuvaj.
Sauces made from itSosovi koji iz njega nastaju
  • ProvençaleProvansalski + garlic, olive oil, parsley+ beli luk, maslinovo ulje, peršun
  • PortugaisePortugalski + onion, tomato concassé, garlic+ luk, konkase od paradajza, beli luk
07

HollandaiseHolandez sauce hollandaise

Butter held in egg yolks warmed over a vinegar reduction.Puter vezan žumancima koja se zgušnjavaju na toploti, preko redukcije sirćeta.
Iu · warm butter emulsionIu · topla emulzija puteraEscoffier, formula 30Eskofije, formula 30
Original · Escoffier, formula 30Original · Eskofije, formula 30
Yield: Prinos: 1 quart (1.1 l)1 kvart (1,1 l)
1907metricmetrički
1½ lb680 gbutterputera
6egg yolksžumanaca
¼ oz7 gsaltsoli
3 tbsp3 kašike≈ 45 mlgood vinegardobrog sirćeta
pinch of coarse pepper, a little water, a drop of lemonprstohvat grubo mlevenog bibera, malo vode, kap limuna
  1. Reduce salt, pepper, vinegar and water by three-quarters.So, biber, sirće i vodu redukuj za tri četvrtine.
  2. Move to the side of the stove or into a bain-marie; add a spoon of fresh water and the yolks.Pomeri na ivicu šporeta ili u vodeno kupatilo; dodaj kašiku sveže vode i žumanca.
  3. Whisk until the yolks thicken to a cream.Muti dok žumanca ne postanu gusta kao krem.
  4. In a lukewarm place, add the butter gradually, whisking briskly; the sauce becomes thick and firm.Na mlakom mestu postepeno dodaj puter, uz energično mućenje; sos postaje gust i čvrst.
  5. Thin with a little water if you like, finish with a drop of lemon and strain.Po želji razredi s malo vode, završi kapljicom limuna i procedi.
  • The thickness depends on the number of yolks and on how far they are cooked. For a thick sauce, cook the yolks well and keep the sauce almost cold while making it.Gustina zavisi od broja žumanaca i od toga koliko su skuvana. Za gust sos žumanca dobro skuvaj i sos drži skoro hladnim dok ga praviš.
TodayDanas
  • Clarified butter gives a steadier sauce; whole butter gives a lighter, looser one.Prečišćen puter daje stabilniji sos; običan, neprečišćen puter daje lakši i ređi.
  • Yolks curdle at about 70–77 °C (McGee). Hold the sauce at 49–63 °C, for no more than 1½ hours (Rouxbe), and do not mix old and new batches.Žumanca se zgrušavaju na oko 70–77 °C (McGee). Sos se drži na 49–63 °C, najviše 1½ sat (Rouxbe), i ne meša se stara serija sa novom.
Asket versionAsket verzija
  • The reduction and the drop of lemon are the acid; salt by the table. Escoffier's salt works out at about 0.9 %, within our range.Redukcija i kap limuna su kiselina; so po tablici. Eskofijeova so izlazi oko 0,9 %, u našem rasponu.
When reality does not follow the recipeKad stvarnost ne prati recept
  • It splitPukao je A fresh yolk with a spoon of warm water in a clean bowl, then the split sauce into it drop by drop, whisking.Sveže žumance sa kašikom tople vode u čistoj činiji, pa pukli sos u njega kap po kap, uz mućenje.
  • Too thickPregust A spoon of warm water.Kašika tople vode.
  • For 50 coversZa 50 porcija Keep it in a bain-marie or a thermos at about 60 °C, stir every 30 minutes, throw it away after 1½ hours.Drži ga u vodenom kupatilu ili termosu na oko 60 °C, mešaj svakih 30 minuta, baci posle 1½ sata.
  • Vulnerable guestsOsetljivi gosti For older guests, pregnant women, young children and anyone with weakened immunity: pasteurised yolks.Za starije goste, trudnice, malu decu i osobe oslabljenog imuniteta: pasterizovana žumanca.
StorageČuvanje
  • Made to order. Never cooled and reheated.Pravi se po porudžbini. Nikad se ne hladi pa podgreva.
Sauces made from itSosovi koji iz njega nastaju
  • BéarnaiseBearnez tarragon reductionredukcija sa estragonom
  • ChoronŠoron béarnaise + tomatobearnez + paradajz
  • MaltaiseMalteški + blood orange+ krvava pomorandža
  • MousselineMuslin + whipped cream+ šlag
08

BéarnaiseBearnez sauce béarnaise

Hollandaise's sister, on a reduction of vinegar, shallot, tarragon and chervil.Sestra holandeza, na redukciji sirćeta, ljutike, estragona i krbuljice.
Iu · warm butter emulsion with herbsIu · topla emulzija putera sa biljemEscoffier, formula 62Eskofije, formula 62
Original · Escoffier, formula 62Original · Eskofije, formula 62
Yield: Prinos: not stated (about 300 ml)nije navedeno (oko 300 ml)
1907metricmetrički
1 tsp1 kašičicachopped shallotsiseckane ljutike
2 oz57 gchopped tarragon stalksiseckanih peteljki estragona
3 oz85 gchervilkrbuljice
4 tbsp4 kašike≈ 60 mlvinegarsirćeta
5egg yolksžumanaca
6 oz170 gmelted butterotopljenog putera
coarse pepper, a pinch of salt; chervil and tarragon leaves and a hint of cayenne to finishgrubo mleven biber, prstohvat soli; za kraj listići krbuljice i estragona i trunka kajenske paprike
  1. Put shallots, tarragon, chervil, pepper, salt and vinegar in a small pan; reduce the vinegar by two-thirds.Ljutiku, estragon, krbuljicu, biber, so i sirće stavi u malu šerpu; sirće redukuj za dve trećine.
  2. Take off the heat and let it cool a little; add the yolks.Skloni sa vatre i malo ohladi; dodaj žumanca.
  3. On a low heat, add the melted butter gradually, whisking briskly so the yolks cook.Na tihoj vatri postepeno dodaj otopljen puter, energično muteći da se žumanca skuvaju.
  4. Strain, finish with chervil and chopped tarragon leaves and a hint of cayenne.Procedi, završi listićima krbuljice i iseckanim estragonom i trunkom kajenske paprike.
  • Serve it only lukewarm: overheated, it turns.Služi se samo mlak: ako se pregreje, preseče se.
  • For grilled meat and poultry.Za meso sa roštilja i živinu.
  • Escoffier's ratio is very rich in yolk (about 34 g of butter per yolk); recipes today usually use more butter, closer to hollandaise.Eskofijeov odnos je vrlo bogat žumancima (oko 34 g putera po žumancetu); današnji recepti obično stavljaju više putera, bliže holandezu.
TodayDanas
  • Same temperatures as hollandaise: curdles at about 70–77 °C, hold at 49–63 °C for no more than 1½ hours.Iste temperature kao holandez: zgrušava se na oko 70–77 °C, drži se na 49–63 °C najviše 1½ sat.
Asket versionAsket verzija
  • The vinegar reduction is the acid of the sauce; no lemon needed.Redukcija sirćeta je kiselina sosa; limun nije potreban.
When reality does not follow the recipeKad stvarnost ne prati recept
  • No chervilNema krbuljice More tarragon and a little parsley.Više estragona i malo peršuna.
  • It splitPresekao se As for hollandaise: a fresh yolk with warm water, then the split sauce drop by drop.Kao kod holandeza: sveže žumance sa toplom vodom, pa presečeni sos kap po kap.
StorageČuvanje
  • Made to order, kept lukewarm, never reheated.Pravi se po porudžbini, drži se mlak i nikad se ne podgreva.
Sauces made from itSosovi koji iz njega nastaju
  • ChoronŠoron + tomato+ paradajz
  • FoyotFoyot + meat glaze+ glas
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