BasicsOsnove · 08

Flour, butter
and rest.Brašno, puter
i odmor.

Short, sweet, puff and choux paste. Measured per kilo of flour, the way bakers count, and choux per litre of water.Prhko, slatko, lisnato i testo za ekler. Mereno na kilogram brašna, kako broje pekari, a testo za ekler na litar vode.

1907 measures: 1 lb = 454 g · 1 oz = 28 g · 1 quart = 1.14 l · 1 pint = 0.57 l · 1 tablespoon ≈ 15 ml · 1 bottle ≈ 0.75 l.Mere iz 1907: 1 lb = 454 g · 1 oz = 28 g · 1 kvart = 1,14 l · 1 pinta = 0,57 l · 1 kašika ≈ 15 ml · 1 boca ≈ 0,75 l.

Short pastePrhko testoSweet pasteSlatko prhko testoPuff pasteLisnato testoChoux pasteTesto za ekler
01

Short pastePrhko testo pâte à foncer · pâte brisée

Flour, butter, water and salt, mixed briefly and rested. Escoffier makes it a day ahead, so it loses its elasticity.Brašno, puter, voda i so, kratko umešeni i odmoreni. Eskofije ga pravi dan ranije, da izgubi elastičnost.
Base for tarts, quiches, piesOsnova za tarte, kiševe, piteEscoffier, formulas 2356 and 2358Eskofije, formule 2356 i 2358
Original · Escoffier, formulas 2356 and 2358Original · Eskofije, formule 2356 i 2358
Yield: Prinos: about 0.9 kgoko 0,9 kg
1907metricmetrički
1 lb454 gflourbrašna
⅙ oz5 gsaltsoli
⅓ pint⅓ pinte0.19 l0,19 lcold waterhladne vode
½ lb227 gbutter, well softened (especially in winter)putera, dobro omekšalog (naročito zimi)
  1. Sift the flour onto the board and make a hollow in the middle.Prosej brašno na dasku i napravi udubljenje u sredini.
  2. Put the salt, water and butter in the hollow; draw the flour in gradually and bring it together quickly.U udubljenje stavi so, vodu i puter; postepeno uvlači brašno i brzo sjedini.
  3. Knead it twice: press the dough away from you, a little at a time, between the board and the heel of your hand (formula 2357).Umesi ga dva puta: testo malo-pomalo potiskuj od sebe, između daske i dlana (formula 2357).
  4. Roll it into a ball, wrap it in a cloth so the surface does not dry, and keep it cool.Oblikuj loptu, umotaj je u krpu da se površina ne osuši i drži na hladnom.
  • Make it "either one day, or at least a few hours, in advance": rested paste is easier to work and bakes to a lighter, more even colour.Pravi ga dan ranije ili bar nekoliko sati unapred: odmoreno testo se lakše razvlači i peče se u svetliju, ravnomerniju boju.
  • Fine short paste for fruit tarts (2358): 1 lb (454 g) flour, ⅓ oz (9 g) salt, 1½ oz (43 g) sugar, 1 egg, ¼ pint (0.14 l) water, 10 oz (283 g) butter. Butter, egg, water and seasoning are mixed first, then the flour.Fino prhko testo za voćne tarte (2358): 1 lb (454 g) brašna, ⅓ oz (9 g) soli, 1½ oz (43 g) šećera, 1 jaje, ¼ pinte (0,14 l) vode, 10 oz (283 g) putera. Prvo se sjedine puter, jaje, voda i začini, pa onda brašno.
TodayDanas
  • Today the butter is usually cold and cut in, not softened: the little flakes of butter make it flakier. Escoffier's softened butter gives a finer, more even crumb.Danas je puter obično hladan i usitnjen u brašno, ne omekšao: listići putera daju lisnatiju koru. Eskofijeov omekšali puter daje finiju, ujednačeniju strukturu.
  • Water last and little: just enough for the dough to hold. More water, more gluten, more shrinking in the oven.Voda na kraju i malo: tek toliko da se testo drži. Više vode, više glutena, više skupljanja u rerni.
  • Blind baking: line the tin, chill it, then bake it under paper and weights until pale gold.Pečenje na slepo: obloži kalup, ohladi, pa peci ispod papira i tegova dok ne dobije svetlozlatnu boju.
Asket versionAsket verzija
  • Weigh the water. "Until it holds" is different every day; the number is not.Izmeri vodu. „Dok se ne drži“ je svaki dan drugačije; broj nije.
  • A day ahead, as Escoffier says: it goes on the prep list for the day before.Dan ranije, kako kaže Eskofije: ide na spisak pripreme za prethodni dan.
  • Trimmings are rolled once more for small tartlets or crackers, never back into the main dough.Obresci se razvuku još jednom za male tartice ili krekere, nikad nazad u glavno testo.
When reality does not follow the recipeKad stvarnost ne prati recept
  • It shrinks in the ovenSkuplja se u rerni Too much water or working, or not rested. Rest it again in the tin, in the fridge, 30 minutes.Previše vode ili mešenja, ili nije odmorilo. Odmori ga još 30 minuta u kalupu, u frižideru.
  • It cracks when rolledPuca pri razvlačenju Too cold: leave it 10 minutes at room temperature.Prehladno: ostavi ga 10 minuta na sobnoj temperaturi.
  • Soggy baseGnjecavo dno Bake blind; brush with egg white for the last 2 minutes before filling.Peci na slepo; poslednja 2 minuta premaži belancem pre punjenja.
StorageČuvanje
  • Wrapped, in the fridge: 3–4 days; frozen, about 2 months.Umotano, u frižideru: 3–4 dana; zamrznuto, oko 2 meseca.
02

Sweet pasteSlatko prhko testo pâte sucrée

Flour, butter, sugar and eggs, no water. Escoffier calls it the dry sugared paste for various purposes.Brašno, puter, šećer i jaja, bez vode. Eskofije ga zove suvo slatko testo za razne namene.
Me · base for sweet tarts and biscuitsMe · osnova za slatke tarte i keksEscoffier, formula 2362Eskofije, formula 2362
Original · Escoffier, formula 2362Original · Eskofije, formula 2362
Yield: Prinos: about 1 kgoko 1 kg
1907metricmetrički
1 lb454 gsifted flourprosejanog brašna
7 oz198 gbutterputera
5 oz142 gpowdered sugaršećera u prahu
3eggsjaja
½ tbsp½ kašike≈ 7 mlorange-flower watervode od pomorandžinog cveta
  1. Mix in the usual way and knead it twice.Umesi na uobičajen način i promesi dva puta.
  2. Roll it into a ball, wrap it and keep it cool until needed.Oblikuj loptu, umotaj i drži na hladnom do upotrebe.
TodayDanas
  • In our kitchens, the 1-2-3 dough: one part sugar, two parts butter, three parts flour, and a yolk or an egg to bind.U našim kuhinjama: testo 1-2-3, jedan deo šećera, dva dela putera, tri dela brašna, i žumance ili jaje da se veže.
  • Sugar and butter first, then egg, then flour, mixed only until it comes together.Prvo šećer i puter, pa jaje, pa brašno, mešano samo dok se ne sjedini.
Asket versionAsket verzija
  • Salt by the dessert table, 0.3–0.6 %: Escoffier has none in this paste; a pinch makes the butter taste of butter.So po tablici za desert, 0,3–0,6 %: Eskofije je u ovom testu nema; prstohvat čini da puter ima ukus putera.
When reality does not follow the recipeKad stvarnost ne prati recept
  • Too soft to rollPremeko za razvlačenje Roll it between two sheets of baking paper and chill it flat.Razvuci ga između dva papira za pečenje i ohladi ga ravnog.
  • It browns too fastPrebrzo tamni Too much sugar for the oven: lower the heat by 10–20 °C.Previše šećera za tu rernu: smanji temperaturu za 10–20 °C.
StorageČuvanje
  • Wrapped, in the fridge: 3–4 days; frozen, about 2 months.Umotano, u frižideru: 3–4 dana; zamrznuto, oko 2 meseca.
03

Puff pasteLisnato testo feuilletage

Equal weights of flour and butter, folded together six times. Each fold triples the layers.Ista masa brašna i putera, presavijena šest puta. Svako presavijanje utrostruči slojeve.
Base for vol-au-vent, mille-feuille, fleuronsOsnova za vol-o-van, mil fej, fleuroneEscoffier, formula 2366Eskofije, formula 2366
Original · Escoffier, formula 2366Original · Eskofije, formula 2366
Yield: Prinos: about 1.2 kgoko 1,2 kg
1907metricmetrički
1 lb454 gflourbrašna
⅓ oz9 gtable saltkuhinjske soli
about ½ pintoko ½ pinte≈ 0.28 l≈ 0,28 lcold waterhladne vode
1 lb454 gbutter, softenedputera, omekšalog
  1. Sift the flour onto the board, make a hollow, put in the salt and water and mix without kneading. Gather it and let it rest 20 minutes.Prosej brašno na dasku, napravi udubljenje, stavi so i vodu i sjedini bez mešenja. Skupi testo i ostavi ga 20 minuta.
  2. Spread it into an even round, spread the softened butter over it, and fold the edges to the middle to close the butter in a square.Razvuci ga u ravan krug, premaži ga omekšalim puterom i preklopi ivice ka sredini, da puter bude zatvoren u kvadrat.
  3. Rest 10 minutes. Roll it out about a foot and a half (45 cm) long, fold it in three and press with the pin: that is one turn.Odmori 10 minuta. Razvuci ga na oko pola metra (45 cm) dužine, preklopi na tri dela i pritisni oklagijom: to je jedna tura.
  4. Give the next turn at once, rolling the other way. Then 8–10 minutes in the cool, and two more turns.Odmah daj sledeću turu, razvlačeći u drugom pravcu. Zatim 8–10 minuta na hladnom, pa još dve ture.
  5. Six turns in all. Ten minutes after the last, the paste is ready to cut.Ukupno šest tura. Deset minuta posle poslednje testo je spremno za sečenje.
TodayDanas
  • Butter and dough must have the same firmness; that is why Escoffier softens the butter. If the butter is harder, it breaks; if softer, it runs out.Puter i testo moraju biti iste čvrstine; zato Eskofije puter omekša. Ako je puter tvrđi, puca; ako je mekši, iscuri.
  • Most kitchens rest it in the fridge between pairs of turns (20–30 minutes), not just "in the cool", because kitchens are warmer than in 1907.Većina kuhinja ga između parova tura odmara u frižideru (20–30 minuta), a ne samo „na hladnom“, jer su kuhinje toplije nego 1907.
  • Four double (book) turns instead of six single ones: 4 × 4 × 4 × 4 = 256 layers of butter instead of 729.Četiri dvostruke ture („knjiga“) umesto šest jednostrukih: 4 × 4 × 4 × 4 = 256 slojeva putera umesto 729.
  • Cut with a sharp knife straight down, never dragged: a dragged cut seals the layers and they will not rise.Seci oštrim nožem pravo nadole, nikad povlačenjem: povučen rez slepi slojeve i oni ne narastu.
Asket versionAsket verzija
  • A pantry base: one batch, cut into blocks, frozen. One block out the day before.Osnova iz ostave: jedna serija, isečena na blokove, zamrznuta. Jedan blok se vadi dan ranije.
  • Trimmings are stacked flat, not balled, and used for fleurons, palmiers and cheese straws.Obresci se slažu ravno, ne u loptu, i koriste za fleurone, palmijere i štapiće sa sirom.
When reality does not follow the recipeKad stvarnost ne prati recept
  • Butter breaks throughPuter probija The butter is harder than the dough. Rest it 10 minutes out of the fridge before the next turn.Puter je tvrđi od testa. Ostavi ga 10 minuta van frižidera pre sledeće ture.
  • Butter runs outPuter curi Too warm. Back in the fridge, 30 minutes.Pretoplo. Nazad u frižider, 30 minuta.
  • It rises unevenlyNeravnomerno raste Uneven rolling or a dragged cut; turn the cut pieces upside down before baking.Neravnomerno razvučeno ili povučen rez; isečene komade okreni naopako pre pečenja.
StorageČuvanje
  • Wrapped, in the fridge: 2–3 days; frozen, 2–3 months.Umotano, u frižideru: 2–3 dana; zamrznuto, 2–3 meseca.
04

Choux pasteTesto za ekler pâte à choux

Water, butter and flour cooked into a paste, then eggs worked in. The steam inside puffs it hollow.Voda, puter i brašno skuvani u kašu, pa umešana jaja. Para iznutra ga naduva i ostavi šupljim.
Base for éclairs, profiteroles, gougères, Dauphine potatoesOsnova za eklere, profiterole, gužere, krompir dofinEscoffier, formula 2373Eskofije, formula 2373
Original · Escoffier, formula 2373Original · Eskofije, formula 2373
Yield: Prinos: about 2 kgoko 2 kg
1907metricmetrički
1 pint1 pinta0.57 l0,57 lwatervode
8 oz227 gbutterputera
⅓ oz9 gsaltsoli
1 oz28 gsugaršećera
1 lb454 gsifted flourprosejanog brašna
16fair-sized eggsjaja srednje veličine
1 tbsp1 kašike≈ 15 mlorange-flower watervode od pomorandžinog cveta
  1. Bring the water, butter, salt and sugar to the boil.Vodu, puter, so i šećer dovedi do ključanja.
  2. When it boils up, take it off the fire, add the flour and mix.Kad provri, skloni sa vatre, dodaj brašno i promešaj.
  3. Back on a moderate fire, stir until the paste no longer sticks to the spoon and the butter begins to ooze a little.Vrati na umerenu vatru i mešaj dok kaša ne prestane da se lepi za varjaču i puter ne počne malo da izlazi.
  4. Off the fire, add the eggs two at a time, each pair well mixed in before the next.Van vatre dodaj jaja po dva, svaki par dobro umešan pre sledećeg.
  5. Finish with the orange-flower water.Završi vodom od pomorandžinog cveta.
  • Common choux paste (2374), for fritters, gnocchi and Dauphine potatoes: the same with 3 oz of butter and 12 eggs; do not dry it too much.Obično testo za ekler (2374), za uštipke, njoke i krompir dofin: isto, sa 3 oz putera i 12 jaja; ne sušiti ga previše.
  • Gougère paste (2375): milk instead of water, no sugar and no orange-flower water, and 8 oz (227 g) of diced Gruyère after the eggs.Testo za gužere (2375): mleko umesto vode, bez šećera i bez vode od pomorandžinog cveta, i 8 oz (227 g) gruyère sira na kockice posle jaja.
TodayDanas
  • The eggs are the only number that is not fixed: the paste is ready when it falls from the spoon slowly and leaves a V-shaped point.Jaja su jedini broj koji nije stalan: kaša je gotova kad sporo pada sa varjače i ostavi vrh u obliku slova V.
  • Bake hot, about 200 °C, then lower, and do not open the oven until they are coloured and set: they collapse.Peci na jakoj temperaturi, oko 200 °C, pa smanji, i ne otvaraj rernu dok ne dobiju boju i ne stegnu se: spuste se.
  • Today often half water, half milk: more colour and a softer shell.Danas često pola voda, pola mleko: više boje i mekša kora.
Asket versionAsket verzija
  • One paste, three directions: sweet (éclairs), savoury (gougères), fried (Dauphine potatoes, fritters). Only the sugar and the fat change.Jedna kaša, tri pravca: slatko (ekleri), slano (gužeri), prženo (krompir dofin, uštipci). Menjaju se samo šećer i masnoća.
  • Piped and frozen raw, they bake straight from the freezer: a pantry base.Sirovi, ištrcani i zamrznuti, peku se direktno iz zamrzivača: osnova iz ostave.
When reality does not follow the recipeKad stvarnost ne prati recept
  • Too runny to pipePreretko za špric Too many eggs. Cook a small second batch without eggs and mix the two.Previše jaja. Skuvaj malu drugu kašu bez jaja i spoji ih.
  • They collapseSpuste se Underbaked, or the door was opened. Bake longer, then 5 minutes in the switched-off oven with the door ajar.Nedopečeni, ili su vrata otvarana. Peci duže, pa 5 minuta u ugašenoj rerni sa odškrinutim vratima.
  • Hollow but greasyŠuplji ali masni The paste was not dried enough on the fire before the eggs.Kaša nije dovoljno prosušena na vatri pre jaja.
StorageČuvanje
  • Paste: fridge 1 day, covered. Baked empty shells: 2 days in a tin, or frozen; crisp them 5 minutes in the oven.Kaša: frižider 1 dan, pokrivena. Pečeni prazni ekleri: 2 dana u kutiji, ili zamrznuti; 5 minuta u rerni da se osuše.
What is made from itŠta iz njega nastaje
  • Éclairs, profiterolesEkleri, profiterole sweet, with pastry creamslatko, sa poslastičarskim kremom
  • Gougères (2375)Gužeri (2375) milk and Gruyèremleko i gruyère
  • Dauphine potatoesKrompir dofin with mashed potato, friedsa pireom od krompira, prženo
  • Gnocchi à la parisiennePariski njoki poached, then gratinatedpoširani, pa zapečeni
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