BasicsOsnove · 06

What the plate
rests on.
Ono na čemu
tanjir leži.

Mashed potatoes, pilaf, risotto and polenta: the Fu of our formula. Rice is measured per 100 g, potatoes per kilo, polenta per litre of water.Pire krompir, pilav, rižoto i palenta: Fu u našoj formuli. Pirinač se meri na 100 g, krompir na kilogram, palenta na litar vode.

1907 measures: 1 lb = 454 g · 1 oz = 28 g · 1 quart = 1.14 l · 1 pint = 0.57 l · 1 tablespoon ≈ 15 ml · 1 bottle ≈ 0.75 l.Mere iz 1907: 1 lb = 454 g · 1 oz = 28 g · 1 kvart = 1,14 l · 1 pinta = 0,57 l · 1 kašika ≈ 15 ml · 1 boca ≈ 0,75 l.

01

Mashed potatoesPire krompir purée de pommes de terre

Floury potatoes, sieved, worked with butter and boiling milk. Served as soon as it is made.Brašnjav krompir, propasiran, umešen sa puterom i ključalim mlekom. Služi se čim se napravi.
Original · Escoffier, formula 2248Original · Eskofije, formula 2248
Yield: Prinos: not statednije navedeno
1907metricmetrički
floury ("Dutch") potatoes, peeled and quarteredbrašnjav („holandski“) krompir, oljušten i isečen na četvrtine
salted waterslana voda
3 oz85 gbutter per lb (454 g) of potatoesputera na lb (454 g) krompira
about ½ pintoko ½ pinte≈ 0.28 l≈ 0,28 lboiling milk, for the whole batchključalog mleka, za celu količinu
  1. Cook the potatoes quickly in salted water.Krompir brzo skuvaj u slanoj vodi.
  2. When they are soft, drain them and rub them through a sieve.Kad omekša, ocedi ga i propasiraj kroz sito.
  3. Work the purée vigorously with the butter.Pire energično umesi sa puterom.
  4. Add the boiling milk little by little, to the consistency you want.Malo-pomalo dodaj ključalo mleko, do željene gustine.
  5. Heat without boiling, and serve.Zagrej bez ključanja i služi.
  • He does not say how many potatoes the half pint of milk is for: it is "about", to consistency.Ne kaže za koliko krompira je pola pinte mleka: to je „oko“, do gustine.
TodayDanas
  • Floury potatoes for mash. Waxy ones go gluey.Za pire brašnjav krompir. Voštan postane lepljiv.
  • Through a sieve or a ricer, never a blender: the starch turns to glue.Kroz sito ili presu, nikad blender: skrob postane lepak.
  • Drained potatoes steamed dry for a minute in the hot pan take more butter and stay lighter.Oceđen krompir kratko prosušen u vrućoj šerpi primi više putera i ostaje lakši.
Asket versionAsket verzija
  • Escoffier's 190 g of butter per kilo is a festive number. Write down your own and keep to it: that is the costing.Eskofijeovih 190 g putera na kilogram je svečan broj. Zapiši svoj i drži ga se: to je kalkulacija.
  • The purée as a plate component: salt 1.0–1.5 %, by the table.Pire kao komponenta tanjira: so 1,0–1,5 %, po tablici.
  • Peels: dried in a low oven and fried, they become crisps for the same plate.Ljuske: prosušene u slaboj rerni i ispržene postaju čips za isti tanjir.
When reality does not follow the recipeKad stvarnost ne prati recept
  • GlueyLepljiv Too much working or the wrong potato. Cannot be undone; turn it into croquettes or a soup.Previše mešan ili pogrešan krompir. Ne može da se vrati; pretvori ga u krokete ili čorbu.
  • Has to waitMora da čeka A covered bain-marie, a film of milk on top; stir in the butter only before service.Pokriveno vodeno kupatilo, sloj mleka odozgo; puter umešaj tek pred servis.
  • Without milkBez mleka Potato water and olive oil.Voda od krompira i maslinovo ulje.
StorageČuvanje
  • Cool fast: from 57 °C to 21 °C within 2 hours, then to 5 °C within another 4 hours (FDA Food Code). Shallow containers, an ice bath, stir now and then.Brzo hladi: sa 57 °C na 21 °C za 2 sata, pa do 5 °C za još 4 sata (FDA Food Code). Plitke posude, ledena kupka, povremeno promešaj.
  • Fridge: 2 days. Reheat with a little hot milk; it will not be as good as fresh.Frižider: 2 dana. Podgrej uz malo vrućeg mleka; neće biti kao svež.
02

Rice pilafPilav riz pilaw

Rice fried in butter with onion, covered with stock and cooked in the oven, each grain separate.Pirinač propržen na puteru sa lukom, preliven temeljcem i kuvan u rerni, tako da zrna ostanu odvojena.
Original · Escoffier, formula 2255Original · Eskofije, formula 2255
Yield: Prinos: not statednije navedeno
1907metricmetrički
½onion, choppedglavice crnog luka, iseckane
2 oz57 gbutterputera
½ lb227 gCarolina rice (long grain)pirinča karolina (dugo zrno)
1 quart1 kvart1.14 l1,14 lwhite consommébelog konsomea
  1. Fry the onion and the rice in the butter.Luk i pirinač proprži na puteru.
  2. Moisten with the white consommé and cover.Prelij belim konsomeom i poklopi.
  3. Cook in a moderate oven for 18 minutes.Kuvaj u umerenoj rerni 18 minuta.
  4. Move it at once into another pan.Odmah ga prebaci u drugu posudu.
  • We print the liquid as it stands in the English edition: 1 quart for ½ lb of rice is about five times the weight of the rice, far more than it can take up in 18 minutes. It is probably a slip; work with the number below.Tečnost pišemo kako stoji u engleskom izdanju: 1 kvart na ½ lb pirinča je oko pet puta više od mase pirinča, mnogo više nego što može da upije za 18 minuta. Verovatno je greška; radi sa brojem ispod.
  • Pilaf for stuffing (2256): three-quarters cooked, then cream, foie gras and truffle. À la turque (2257): saffron and 4 oz of tomato concassé.Pilav za punjenje (2256): kuvan do tri četvrtine, pa pavlaka, foa gra i tartuf. Na turski (2257): šafran i 4 oz konkasea od paradajza.
TodayDanas
  • Long-grain rice for pilaf is often rinsed (unlike risotto rice), so the grains stay separate.Pirinač dugog zrna za pilav se često ispira (za razliku od pirinča za rižoto), da zrna ostanu odvojena.
  • After the oven, 5–10 minutes covered, then loosened with a fork.Posle rerne 5–10 minuta poklopljeno, pa se razdvoji viljuškom.
  • On the hob: lowest heat, a tight lid, 16–18 minutes, and do not lift the lid.Na ringli: najslabija vatra, poklopac koji dobro naleže, 16–18 minuta, i ne podiži poklopac.
Asket versionAsket verzija
  • Weigh rice and stock, write down the ratio that works with your rice and your pan, and keep it.Izmeri pirinač i temeljac, zapiši odnos koji radi sa tvojim pirinčem i tvojom posudom, i drži ga se.
  • The salt goes into the stock, by the table, because the rice drinks all of it.So ide u temeljac, po tablici, jer pirinač popije sve.
When reality does not follow the recipeKad stvarnost ne prati recept
  • MushyRaskuvan Too much liquid or too long. Spread it on a tray to stop the cooking; weigh the liquid next time.Previše tečnosti ili predugo. Razastri ga na pleh da prestane da se kuva; sledeći put izmeri tečnost.
  • Hard in the middleTvrd u sredini A few spoons of hot stock, lid on, 5 minutes more.Nekoliko kašika vrućeg temeljca, poklopac, još 5 minuta.
  • For 100 portionsZa 100 porcija Gastronorm pans 3–4 cm deep in a combi oven, covered with foil, the same ratio.Gastronorm posude duboke 3–4 cm u konvektomatu, pokrivene folijom, isti odnos.
StorageČuvanje
  • Cool fast: from 57 °C to 21 °C within 2 hours, then to 5 °C within another 4 hours (FDA Food Code). Shallow containers, an ice bath, stir now and then.Brzo hladi: sa 57 °C na 21 °C za 2 sata, pa do 5 °C za još 4 sata (FDA Food Code). Plitke posude, ledena kupka, povremeno promešaj.
  • Rice: the spores of Bacillus cereus survive cooking. Cool it fast and spread thin, keep it in the fridge no more than a day, reheat it once, until it is hot all the way through.Pirinač: spore bakterije Bacillus cereus prežive kuvanje. Ohladi ga brzo i razastri tanko, u frižideru najviše jedan dan, podgrej samo jednom, da bude vreo skroz.
What is made from itŠta iz njega nastaje
  • À la turque (2257)Na turski (2257) + saffron and tomato+ šafran i paradajz
  • For stuffing (2256)Za punjenje (2256) three-quarters cooked, with creamkuvan do tri četvrtine, sa pavlakom
03

RisottoRižoto risotto

Short, starchy rice toasted in fat and cooked by adding hot stock little by little, stirring. Butter and cheese are beaten in off the heat.Pirinač kratkog, skrobnog zrna, propržen na masnoći i kuvan uz dodavanje vrućeg temeljca malo-pomalo, uz mešanje. Puter i sir se umute van vatre.
Fu · base, or the dish itselfFu · podloga, ili samo jeloModern Italian practice (not in Escoffier 1907)Savremena italijanska praksa (nema ga kod Eskofijea 1907)
MethodPostupak
  1. Soffritto: onion or shallot sweated in butter or oil, without colour.Soffritto: luk ili ljutika izdinstani na puteru ili ulju, bez boje.
  2. Tostatura: add the rice, unwashed, and stir until every grain is coated and hot, 1–2 minutes.Tostatura: dodaj neopran pirinač i mešaj dok svako zrno ne bude obloženo i vruće, 1–2 minuta.
  3. A splash of dry white wine; let it be absorbed.Malo suvog belog vina; pusti da upije.
  4. Hot stock a ladle at a time, stirring often, over a medium heat, 16–20 minutes depending on the rice.Vruć temeljac kutlaču po kutlaču, uz često mešanje, na srednjoj vatri, 16–20 minuta, zavisno od pirinča.
  5. Off the heat, mantecatura: cold butter and grated Parmigiano beaten in hard. It should flow in a wave. Rest one minute.Van vatre, mantecatura: hladan puter i rendani parmezan energično umućeni. Treba da teče kao talas. Odmori minut.
TodayDanas
  • Do not rinse the rice: the starch on the surface is the creaminess.Pirinač ne ispiraj: skrob na površini je kremastost.
  • The restaurant way: cook to about two-thirds (10–12 minutes), spread on a tray, chill; finish to order in 5–6 minutes.Restoranski način: skuvaj do oko dve trećine (10–12 minuta), razastri na pleh, ohladi; završi po porudžbini za 5–6 minuta.
  • Carnaroli holds its shape best; Vialone Nano cooks faster.Karnaroli najbolje drži oblik; vialone nano se brže kuva.
Asket versionAsket verzija
  • The stock decides the risotto. Unsalted pantry stock; salt at the very end, after the cheese, which is salty.Temeljac odlučuje rižoto. Neslan temeljac iz ostave; so na samom kraju, posle sira, koji je slan.
  • Vegetable risotto: the trimmings of that vegetable simmered 20 minutes in water are the stock.Rižoto od povrća: obresci tog povrća krčkani 20 minuta u vodi su temeljac.
When reality does not follow the recipeKad stvarnost ne prati recept
  • GlueLepak Overcooked or stirred too long after it was done. Stop earlier: it finishes in the resting minute.Prekuvan, ili mešan predugo pošto je već bio gotov. Stani ranije: završi se u minutu odmora.
  • Too dry on the platePresuv na tanjiru One more ladle of stock before the mantecatura: it tightens as it waits.Još jedna kutlača temeljca pre mantecature: zgusne se dok čeka.
  • Without butter and cheeseBez putera i sira A spoon of olive oil and a little miso or a vegetable purée for the finish.Kašika maslinovog ulja i malo misa ili pire od povrća za kraj.
StorageČuvanje
  • Part-cooked rice: spread thin, chilled within an hour, fridge 1 day.Polukuvan pirinač: razastrt tanko, ohlađen za sat vremena, frižider 1 dan.
  • Rice: the spores of Bacillus cereus survive cooking. Cool it fast and spread thin, keep it in the fridge no more than a day, reheat it once, until it is hot all the way through.Pirinač: spore bakterije Bacillus cereus prežive kuvanje. Ohladi ga brzo i razastri tanko, u frižideru najviše jedan dan, podgrej samo jednom, da bude vreo skroz.
04

PolentaPalenta polenta

Maize flour rained into boiling salted water, stirred for 25 minutes, finished with butter and Parmesan.Kukuruzno brašno sipano kao kiša u ključalu slanu vodu, mešano 25 minuta, završeno puterom i parmezanom.
Original · Escoffier, formula 2294Original · Eskofije, formula 2294
Yield: Prinos: not statednije navedeno
1907metricmetrički
1 quart1 kvart1.14 l1,14 lboiling waterključale vode
½ oz14 gsaltsoli
⅔ lb302 gmaize flourkukuruznog brašna
2 oz57 gbutterputera
2½ oz71 ggrated Parmesanrendanog parmezana
  1. Rain the maize flour into the boiling salted water, stirring.Kukuruzno brašno sipaj kao kišu u ključalu slanu vodu, uz mešanje.
  2. Cook for 25 minutes.Kuvaj 25 minuta.
  3. Finish with the butter and the Parmesan.Završi puterom i parmezanom.
  4. As a garnish: spread it thin on a wet tray and let it cool; cut it, brown it in butter, sprinkle with cheese and pour noisette butter over.Kao prilog: razastri tanko na vlažan pleh i ohladi; iseci, zapeci na puteru, pospi sirom i prelij braon puterom.
TodayDanas
  • Coarse stone-ground polenta needs 40–50 minutes; instant polenta 5. More water for soft polenta served with a spoon, less for one you will cut.Krupno mlevena palenta traži 40–50 minuta, instant 5. Više vode za meku palentu koja se služi kašikom, manje za onu koja se seče.
  • Whisk the flour into water that is just boiling, and keep whisking for the first minute: that is when lumps form.Brašno umuti u vodu koja tek ključa i muti prvi minut: tada nastaju grudve.
  • Kačamak and žganci are the same family.Kačamak i žganci su ista porodica.
Asket versionAsket verzija
  • Firm polenta is a pantry base: set in a tray, cut, grilled or fried to order. Trimmings become croutons.Čvrsta palenta je osnova iz ostave: stegne se u plehu, seče, peče na roštilju ili prži po porudžbini. Obresci postaju krutoni.
  • Escoffier's salt is about 1.2 % of the water, so about 1 % of the finished polenta: right for a base.Eskofijeova so je oko 1,2 % vode, znači oko 1 % gotove palente: taman za podlogu.
When reality does not follow the recipeKad stvarnost ne prati recept
  • LumpsGrudve Stick blender at once, before it sets.Odmah štapni mikser, pre nego što se stegne.
  • Too stiffPregusta Hot water or milk, a little at a time.Vruća voda ili mleko, malo-pomalo.
  • It spitsPrska Lower the heat, half a lid, a long spoon. It burns skin.Smanji vatru, poklopac do pola, duga kašika. Peče kožu.
StorageČuvanje
  • Cool fast: from 57 °C to 21 °C within 2 hours, then to 5 °C within another 4 hours (FDA Food Code). Shallow containers, an ice bath, stir now and then.Brzo hladi: sa 57 °C na 21 °C za 2 sata, pa do 5 °C za još 4 sata (FDA Food Code). Plitke posude, ledena kupka, povremeno promešaj.
  • Fridge: 3–4 days, set in a tray and covered.Frižider: 3–4 dana, stegnuta u plehu i pokrivena.