BasicsOsnove · 09

Before
the fire.Pre
vatre.

Brine and dry salting, marinades, and the court-bouillon fish is poached in. Escoffier's own advice comes first: a good young animal needs no marinade.Salamura i suvo soljenje, marinade, i kurbujon u kom se pošira riba. Prvo Eskofijeov savet: dobra mlada životinja ne treba marinadu.

1907 measures: 1 lb = 454 g · 1 oz = 28 g · 1 quart = 1.14 l · 1 pint = 0.57 l · 1 tablespoon ≈ 15 ml · 1 bottle ≈ 0.75 l.Mere iz 1907: 1 lb = 454 g · 1 oz = 28 g · 1 kvart = 1,14 l · 1 pinta = 0,57 l · 1 kašika ≈ 15 ml · 1 boca ≈ 0,75 l.

Brine and dry saltingSalamura i suvo soljenjeMarinadesMarinadeCourt-bouillonKurbujon
01

Brine and dry saltingSalamura i suvo soljenje saumure

Escoffier's brine is for curing tongue and beef for days. Today brine is mostly used for hours, to season and keep meat and fish juicy.Eskofijeova salamura je za salamurenje jezika i govedine danima. Danas se salamura uglavnom koristi satima, da začini i sačuva sočnost mesa i ribe.
Sa · salt before the fireSa · so pre vatreEscoffier, formula 172Eskofije, formula 172
Original · Escoffier, formula 172Original · Eskofije, formula 172
Yield: Prinos: 50 quarts (57 l)50 kvartova (57 l)
1907metricmetrički
56 lb25.4 kg25,4 kggrey saltsive soli
6 lb2.7 kg2,7 kgsaltpetrešalitre
3½ lb1.6 kg1,6 kgbrown sugarsmeđeg šećera
50 quarts50 kvartova56.8 l56,8 lwatervode
  1. Bring the salt and water to the boil.So i vodu dovedi do ključanja.
  2. Drop in a peeled potato. If it floats, add water until it begins to sink; if it sinks at once, reduce until it is held up.Ubaci oljušten krompir. Ako pluta, dodaj vode dok ne počne da tone; ako odmah potone, redukuj dok ga tečnost ne zadrži.
  3. Add the sugar and saltpetre, let them dissolve, take it off the fire and let it cool.Dodaj šećer i šalitru, pusti da se rastvore, skloni sa vatre i ohladi.
  4. Pour it into a stone or slate vat, with a wooden grid on the bottom.Sipaj u kamenu posudu sa drvenom rešetkom na dnu.
  5. Large pieces are injected with brine as well, so the salting is even.Veliki komadi se i ubrizgavaju salamurom, da se ravnomerno usole.
  • Beef of more than 8–10 lb (4–5 kg): eight days in the brine.Govedina teža od 8–10 lb (4–5 kg): osam dana u salamuri.
  • The salt on paper is more than water can dissolve (about 360 g per litre): the potato, not the scale, sets the strength. The sugar figure is unclear in the scan; 3½ lb is the likely reading.Soli je na papiru više nego što voda može da rastvori (oko 360 g na litar): jačinu određuje krompir, ne vaga. Broj za šećer se u skenu slabo čita; 3½ lb je najverovatnije.
TodayDanas
  • Saltpetre is not used in kitchens today. For curing (tongue, ham, pastrami) use nitrite curing salt at the maker's dose; without it the meat is grey, not pink.Šalitra se danas ne koristi u kuhinji. Za salamurenje (jezik, šunka, pastrami) koristi nitritnu so po uputstvu proizvođača; bez nje meso je sivo, ne ružičasto.
  • A 5–6 % brine makes meat take up 10 % or more of its weight (McGee): juicier, but also wetter crust. Pat it dry and rest it uncovered in the fridge before roasting.Salamura od 5–6 % učini da meso primi 10 % svoje mase ili više (McGee): sočnije, ali i vlažnija kora. Osuši ga i odmori otkriveno u frižideru pre pečenja.
  • Dry salting gives the same seasoning without the water: salt by weight, 12–24 hours, uncovered in the fridge.Suvo soljenje daje isto začinjavanje bez vode: so po masi, 12–24 sata, otkriveno u frižideru.
Asket versionAsket verzija
  • Salt is weighed against the meat, never "a handful". The percentages are in our table of measures, with their sources.So se meri prema mesu, nikad „šaka“. Procenti su u našoj tablici mera, sa izvorima.
  • Brine is used once and thrown away: it holds the blood and proteins of the meat.Salamura se koristi jednom i baca: u njoj su krv i belančevine mesa.
When reality does not follow the recipeKad stvarnost ne prati recept
  • Too salty after briningPreslano posle salamure Too long or too strong. Soak in cold water 30–60 minutes; next time cut the time, not the salt.Predugo ili prejako. Potopi u hladnu vodu 30–60 minuta; sledeći put skrati vreme, ne so.
  • No time for 24 hoursNema vremena za 24 sata Thin pieces: 1–2 hours of dry salt are better than nothing; or salt just before the fire.Tanki komadi: 1–2 sata suve soli je bolje nego ništa; ili posoli tik pre vatre.
  • No scale for saltNema vage za so A litre of water and a level tablespoon of fine salt is about 1.5 %; four tablespoons, about 6 %.Litar vode i ravna kašika sitne soli je oko 1,5 %; četiri kašike, oko 6 %.
StorageČuvanje
  • Always in the fridge, at 5 °C or below, covered. The meat fully under the brine.Uvek u frižideru, na 5 °C ili niže, pokriveno. Meso celo ispod salamure.
02

MarinadesMarinade marinade cuite · marinade crue

Wine, vinegar, oil and aromatics. Escoffier himself warns: a marinade softens meat, but the meat loses flavour.Vino, sirće, ulje i začini. Eskofije i sam upozorava: marinada omekša meso, ali meso izgubi ukus.
Ac · before the fireAc · pre vatreEscoffier, formulas 168 and 169Eskofije, formule 168 i 169
Original · Escoffier, formulas 168 and 169Original · Eskofije, formule 168 i 169
Yield: Prinos: 5 quarts (5.7 l)5 kvartova (5,7 l)
1907metricmetrički
carrots and onions, sliced (the scan is unreadable here)šargarepe i crnog luka, narezanih (u skenu se ne čita)
2 oz57 gshallots, slicedljutike, narezane
1clove of garlic, crushedčen belog luka, zgnječen
1faggot: 1 oz parsley stalks, 2 sprigs of rosemary, as much thyme, 2 bay leavesbuket: 1 oz peteljki peršuna, 2 grančice ruzmarina, isto toliko timijana, 2 lovorova lista
½ pint½ pinte0.28 l0,28 loilulja
1 pint1 pinta0.57 l0,57 lvinegarsirćeta
2 bottles1.5 l1,5 lwhite winebelog vina
3 quarts3 kvarta3.4 l3,4 lwatervode
2 oz57 gsaltsoli
½ oz14 gpeppercornszrna bibera
4 oz113 gbrown sugarsmeđeg šećera
  1. Fry the carrots and onions in the oil, stirring often.Šargarepu i luk proprži na ulju, često mešajući.
  2. When they begin to colour, add the shallots, garlic and faggot.Kad počnu da dobijaju boju, dodaj ljutiku, beli luk i buket.
  3. Add the vinegar, wine and water and cook 20 minutes.Dodaj sirće, vino i vodu i kuvaj 20 minuta.
  4. Add the salt, pepper and sugar; 10 minutes more, then strain and let it cool before the meat goes in.Dodaj so, biber i šećer; još 10 minuta, pa procedi i ohladi pre nego što meso uđe.
  • Cooked marinade for venison (168). In summer the blood of the meat spoils it: boil it up every two or three days.Kuvana marinada za divljač (168). Leti je krv iz mesa kvari: prokuvaj je svaka dva-tri dana.
  • Raw marinade (169): carrot, onion, shallot, parsley, thyme, bay; the meat seasoned, laid on them, sprinkled with oil and half as much vinegar, turned 3–4 times a day. "Three hours should be sufficient" for a roebuck cutlet.Sirova marinada (169): šargarepa, luk, ljutika, peršun, timijan, lovor; meso začinjeno, položeno na povrće, preliveno uljem i upola manje sirćeta, okretano 3–4 puta dnevno. Za kotlet srndaća „tri sata su dovoljna“.
  • Mutton like roebuck (170): add 1 oz of juniper, rosemary, wild thyme, basil, two more cloves of garlic and one quart less water. Large joints: no more than four days.Ovčetina kao srnetina (170): dodaj 1 oz kleke, ruzmarin, majkinu dušicu, bosiljak, još dva čena belog luka i kvart vode manje. Veliki komadi: najviše četiri dana.
  • He advises young animals instead: with them, "the marinade may well be dispensed with".On savetuje mlade životinje: kod njih se marinada „može slobodno izostaviti“.
TodayDanas
  • A marinade works mostly on the surface: it gets in millimetres, not centimetres. For flavour deep inside, salt by weight works better.Marinada radi uglavnom na površini: ulazi milimetrima, ne centimetrima. Za ukus duboko unutra bolje radi so po masi.
  • Long acid marinades make the outside mushy. Hours for small pieces, a day or two for large ones.Duge kisele marinade čine spoljašnjost kašastom. Sati za male komade, dan-dva za velike.
  • Always in the fridge, and the marinade is thrown away, or boiled before it is used in a sauce.Uvek u frižideru, a marinada se baca ili prokuva pre nego što ide u sos.
Asket versionAsket verzija
  • Escoffier's advice is ours: a good young animal needs no marinade. The marinade is for a tough or strong one.Eskofijeov savet je i naš: dobra mlada životinja ne treba marinadu. Marinada je za tvrdu ili jaku.
  • The acid counts in the dish: whatever the marinade leaves, the sauce needs less.Kiselina se računa u jelu: koliko je ostavi marinada, toliko manje treba sosu.
When reality does not follow the recipeKad stvarnost ne prati recept
  • Meat turned grey and soft outsideMeso je spolja posivelo i omekšalo Too long in acid. Next time: oil, aromatics and wine, vinegar only at the end.Predugo u kiselini. Sledeći put: ulje, začini i vino, sirće tek na kraju.
  • Wet meat will not brownMokro meso neće da dobije koru Dry it well, sear it in batches, in a hot pan.Dobro ga osuši, peci u turama, u vrućem tiganju.
  • Using it for the sauceZa sos Boil it, skim it, reduce it: it has had raw meat in it.Prokuvaj je, oberi penu, redukuj: u njoj je bilo sirovo meso.
StorageČuvanje
  • Cooked marinade without meat: fridge, a week. With meat: as long as the meat, then thrown away or boiled.Kuvana marinada bez mesa: frižider, nedelju dana. Sa mesom: koliko i meso, pa se baca ili prokuva.
03

Court-bouillonKurbujon court-bouillon

A short broth of water, vinegar or wine, vegetables and salt, for poaching fish. An hour of cooking; the pepper only at the end.Kratka čorba od vode, sirćeta ili vina, povrća i soli, za poširanje ribe. Sat vremena kuvanja; biber tek na kraju.
Poaching liquid for fish and shellfishTečnost za poširanje ribe i školjkiEscoffier, formula 163Eskofije, formula 163
Original · Escoffier, formula 163Original · Eskofije, formula 163
Yield: Prinos: 5 quarts (5.7 l)5 kvartova (5,7 l)
1907metricmetrički
5 quarts5 kvartova5.7 l5,7 lwatervode
carrots, sliced (the scan is unreadable here)šargarepe, narezane (u skenu se ne čita)
onions, sliced (the scan is unreadable here)crnog luka, narezanog (u skenu se ne čita)
½ pint½ pinte0.28 l0,28 lvinegar (the likely reading)sirćeta (najverovatnije čitanje)
2 oz57 ggrey saltsive soli
2 oz57 gparsley stalksperšunovih peteljki
a little thyme and baymalo timijana i lovora
½ oz14 gpeppercorns (the likely reading)zrna bibera (najverovatnije čitanje)
  1. Put the water, salt and vinegar in a pan with the carrots and onions, and the parsley, thyme and bay tied together.U šerpu stavi vodu, so i sirće, šargarepu i luk, i vezane peršun, timijan i lovor.
  2. Bring to the boil and simmer for one hour.Dovedi do ključanja i krčkaj sat vremena.
  3. The peppercorns only twelve minutes before straining: longer, and it turns bitter.Biber tek dvanaest minuta pre ceđenja: duže, i postaje gorak.
  4. Strain and keep it until needed.Procedi i ostavi do upotrebe.
  • For trout, salmon and shellfish. With white wine (164): 1 quart of wine and 1 quart of water, a large faggot, 3 oz (85 g) of onion, a few peppercorns, half an hour. With red wine (165): the same with red wine.Za pastrmku, losos i školjke. Sa belim vinom (164): 1 kvart vina i 1 kvart vode, veliki buket, 3 oz (85 g) luka, nekoliko zrna bibera, pola sata. Sa crnim vinom (165): isto, sa crnim vinom.
  • Plain court-bouillon (166), for whole turbot and brill: per quart of water, a little under ½ oz of salt, ¼ pint of milk and a slice of peeled lemon. The fish goes in cold and is brought slowly to the boil, then moved to the side.Običan kurbujon (166), za ceo romb i oblić: na kvart vode malo manje od ½ oz soli, ¼ pinte mleka i kolut oljuštenog limuna. Riba ulazi u hladnu tečnost, polako se dovodi do ključanja, pa se pomeri na ivicu.
  • For fish that poach in under half an hour, the court-bouillon is always made ahead, except for turbot and brill.Za ribu koja se pošira kraće od pola sata, kurbujon se uvek pravi unapred, osim za romb i oblić.
  • Blanc (167), for calf's head, salsify, cardoons: a little flour whisked into cold water, lemon juice or vinegar, salt, brought to the boil stirring. It keeps them white.Blanc (167), za teleću glavu, crni koren, kardu: malo brašna umućeno u hladnu vodu, limunov sok ili sirće, so, dovedeno do ključanja uz mešanje. Čuva ih belim.
TodayDanas
  • Fish is poached well below the boil: the liquid barely trembling, about 70–80 °C. A boil breaks the flesh and dries it.Riba se pošira daleko ispod ključanja: tečnost jedva drhti, oko 70–80 °C. Ključanje lomi meso i suši ga.
  • Whole fish into cold court-bouillon, portions into hot: so the outside and the middle are done together.Cela riba u hladan kurbujon, porcije u vruć: da spolja i u sredini budu gotove zajedno.
Asket versionAsket verzija
  • The court-bouillon carries the salt (1 %) and the acid. The fish takes them from it, so the sauce needs less of both.Kurbujon nosi so (1 %) i kiselinu. Riba ih uzme iz njega, pa sosu treba manje i jednog i drugog.
  • After shellfish it is a stock: strained and frozen, it is the base of the next sauce.Posle školjki on je temeljac: proceđen i zamrznut, osnova je sledećeg sosa.
When reality does not follow the recipeKad stvarnost ne prati recept
  • BitterGorak The pepper boiled too long. Pepper in the last 12 minutes, as Escoffier says.Biber je predugo kuvan. Biber u poslednjih 12 minuta, kako kaže Eskofije.
  • The fish fell apartRiba se raspala It boiled. Keep it below the boil; lift the fish out on a rack or a slotted spoon.Ključalo je. Drži ispod ključanja; ribu vadi na rešetki ili rupičastoj kašici.
  • No wineNema vina Vinegar and water (163), or lemon.Sirće i voda (163), ili limun.
StorageČuvanje
  • Cool fast: from 57 °C to 21 °C within 2 hours, then to 5 °C within another 4 hours (FDA Food Code). Shallow containers, an ice bath, stir now and then.Brzo hladi: sa 57 °C na 21 °C za 2 sata, pa do 5 °C za još 4 sata (FDA Food Code). Plitke posude, ledena kupka, povremeno promešaj.
  • Fridge: 3 days. Freezer: 2–3 months for best quality, labelled with the date. Bring to the boil before use.Frižider: 3 dana. Zamrzivač: 2–3 meseca za najbolji kvalitet, sa datumom. Pre upotrebe prokuvaj.
← PreviousPrethodnoDoughsTestaNextSledeće →TemperaturesTemperature