BasicsOsnove · 04

One pot,
four soups.Jedan lonac,
četiri supe.

Beef broth, the consommé made clear from it, and Escoffier's thick soups, which are really one rule: a purée, bound in three different ways.Goveđa supa, konsome koji se od nje izbistri, i Eskofijeove guste čorbe, koje su zapravo jedno pravilo: pire, vezan na tri načina.

1907 measures: 1 lb = 454 g · 1 oz = 28 g · 1 quart = 1.14 l · 1 pint = 0.57 l · 1 tablespoon ≈ 15 ml · 1 bottle ≈ 0.75 l.Mere iz 1907: 1 lb = 454 g · 1 oz = 28 g · 1 kvart = 1,14 l · 1 pinta = 0,57 l · 1 kašika ≈ 15 ml · 1 boca ≈ 0,75 l.

Beef brothGoveđa supaConsomméKonsomePurée soupPire čorbaVelouté and cream soupsVelute i krem čorba
Purée soupformula 239watery vegetable · 62 %potato · 38 %+ consommé to consistencyVelouté soupformula 242velouté · 50 %purée · 25 %consommé · 25 %+ 3 yolks, 100 ml cream per litreCream soupformula 243thin béchamel · 50 %purée · 25 %milk · 25 %+ 100–200 ml cream per litre
Pire čorbaformula 239vodenasto povrće · 62 %krompir · 38 %+ konsome do gustineVelute čorbaformula 242velute · 50 %pire · 25 %konsome · 25 %+ 3 žumanca, 100 ml pavlake na litarKrem čorbaformula 243redak bešamel · 50 %pire · 25 %mleko · 25 %+ 100–200 ml pavlake na litar
purée soup by weight, the others by volume · Escoffier, formulas 239, 242, 243pire čorba po masi, ostale po zapremini · Eskofije, formule 239, 242, 243
01

Beef brothGoveđa supa consommé ordinaire · marmite

Escoffier's ordinary consommé: beef, a little poultry, root vegetables, five hours. What we call goveđa supa.Eskofijeov obični konsome: govedina, malo živine, korenasto povrće, pet sati. Ono što mi zovemo goveđa supa.
Pantry → clear soups, consomméOstava → bistre supe, konsomeEscoffier, formula 1Eskofije, formula 1
Original · Escoffier, formula 1Original · Eskofije, formula 1
Yield: Prinos: 4 quarts (4.5 l)4 kvarta (4,5 l)
1907metricmetrički
3 lb1.36 kg1,36 kgshin of beefgoveđe kolenice
3 lb1.36 kg1,36 kglean beefnemasne govedine
1½ lb680 gpoultry carcasseskostura živine
1 lb454 gcarrotsšargarepe
½ lb227 gturnipsbele repe
¾ lb340 gleeks, and 1 stick of celerypraziluka, i 1 rebro celera
¼ lb113 gparsnipspaškanata
1medium onion, stuck with a clovesrednji crni luk sa zabodenim karanfilićem
5 quarts5 kvartova5.7 l5,7 lwatervode
½ oz14 ggrey saltsive morske soli
  1. Tie the meat and put it in a stockpot with the carcasses, the water and the salt.Meso veži i stavi u lonac sa kosturima, vodom i solju.
  2. Heat slowly, so it does not come to the boil quickly; stir the meat now and then and skim as the scum rises. A little cold water before the boil delays it and brings up more scum.Zagrevaj polako, da ne provri brzo; povremeno promešaj meso i skidaj penu kako izlazi. Malo hladne vode pre ključanja ga odloži i izvuče još pene.
  3. Add the vegetables, skim again and wipe the inside of the pot down to the liquid.Dodaj povrće, ponovo skini penu i obriši unutrašnju stranu lonca do nivoa tečnosti.
  4. Move to the cooler side of the stove and simmer gently for 4–5 hours.Pomeri na hladniji deo šporeta i krčkaj lagano 4–5 sati.
  5. Off the heat, add ½ pint (0.28 l) of cold water, wait a few minutes for the fat to rise, and lift it off.Skloni sa vatre, dodaj ½ pinte (0,28 l) hladne vode, sačekaj nekoliko minuta da masnoća ispliva i skini je.
  6. Strain through a very fine strainer into a wide white bowl and let it cool uncovered, in a draught.Procedi kroz vrlo gusto cedilo u široku belu posudu i ostavi da se hladi otklopljena, na promaji.
  • Chicken consommé (formula 3): less beef, and an old hen or cock, lightly coloured on the spit or in the oven, goes in with the meat. It should be light amber and limpid.Pileći konsome (formula 3): manje govedine, a uz meso ide stara kokoška ili petao, blago zapečeni na ražnju ili u rerni. Treba da bude svetle ćilibarne boje i bistar.
  • Unlike his stocks, this one is salted: it is a soup.Za razliku od njegovih temeljaca, ova se soli: to je supa.
TodayDanas
  • The same pot is our goveđa supa. The beef is served on its own, with horseradish or a tomato sauce: Tafelspitz in Vienna, bollito in Italy.Isti lonac je naša goveđa supa. Govedina se služi posebno, uz ren ili paradajz sos: u Beču Tafelspitz, u Italiji bollito.
  • Half an onion charred in a dry pan gives colour and a sweeter taste.Pola glavice luka zapečeno na suvom tiganju daje boju i slađi ukus.
  • The surface should barely tremble. If it boils, it clouds.Površina treba jedva da se mreška. Ako ključa, zamuti se.
Asket versionAsket verzija
  • Escoffier salts the pot, about 0.3 %. For the pantry we leave the salt out and salt the soup at service.Eskofije soli lonac, oko 0,3 %. Za ostavu so izostavljamo i solimo supu pri služenju.
  • Salt at service, by the table: a soup is most pleasant at 0.6–0.9 %.So pri služenju, po tablici: supa je najprijatnija na 0,6–0,9 %.
  • Zero waste: the beef goes on the menu, and the carrot, cut into rounds, goes back into the soup.Bez otpada: govedina ide na meni, a šargarepa, isečena na kolutove, vraća se u supu.
When reality does not follow the recipeKad stvarnost ne prati recept
  • No poultry carcassesNema kostura živine Two or three chicken wings or a neck per litre.Dva-tri pileća krila ili jedan vrat na litar.
  • CloudyMutna It boiled. Clarify it (next recipe), or strain it through muslin and serve it as a home soup.Ključala je. Izbistri je (sledeći recept) ili je procedi kroz gazu i služi kao domaću supu.
  • Too fattyPremasna Chill it overnight and lift off the set fat.Ohladi je preko noći i skini stegnutu masnoću.
  • Only two hoursSamo dva sata Smaller pieces and a pressure cooker, about one hour. It will be less clear.Manji komadi i ekspres lonac, oko sat vremena. Biće manje bistra.
StorageČuvanje
  • Cool fast: from 57 °C to 21 °C within 2 hours, then to 5 °C within another 4 hours (FDA Food Code). Shallow containers, an ice bath, stir now and then.Brzo hladi: sa 57 °C na 21 °C za 2 sata, pa do 5 °C za još 4 sata (FDA Food Code). Plitke posude, ledena kupka, povremeno promešaj.
  • Fridge: 3–4 days. Freezer: 2–3 months for best quality, labelled with the date. Bring to the boil before use.Frižider: 3–4 dana. Zamrzivač: 2–3 meseca za najbolji kvalitet, sa datumom. Pre upotrebe prokuvaj.
02

ConsomméKonsome consommé clarifié

The broth made clear with minced lean beef and egg white. They rise and form a raft that catches everything cloudy.Supa izbistrena mlevenom nemasnom govedinom i belancem. Oni isplivaju i naprave splav koji uhvati sve što muti.
Soup · clearSupa · bistraEscoffier, formula 2Eskofije, formula 2
Original · Escoffier, formula 2Original · Eskofije, formula 2
Yield: Prinos: 4 quarts (4.5 l)4 kvarta (4,5 l)
1907metricmetrički
5 quarts5 kvartova5.7 l5,7 lordinary consommé (formula 1), cold and free of fatobičnog konsomea (formula 1), hladnog i bez masnoće
1½ lb680 gvery lean beef, mincedvrlo nemasne govedine, mlevene
1egg whitebelance
1poultry carcass, roasted if possiblekostur živine, po mogućstvu pečen
  1. Pound the minced beef in a mortar with the carcass and the egg white, adding a little cold consommé.Mlevenu govedinu istucaj u avanu sa kosturom i belancem, uz malo hladnog konsomea.
  2. Put it in a tall, narrow, thick-bottomed pan; add the cold consommé little by little and mix well.Stavi u visoku, usku šerpu debelog dna; postepeno dodaj hladan konsome i dobro promešaj.
  3. Set it on the fire and stir so nothing sticks, until it boils.Stavi na vatru i mešaj da ništa ne zalepi, dok ne provri.
  4. At the boil, move it to the side so it only simmers: "a good hour". Longer harms the flavour.Kad provri, pomeri na ivicu da samo tiho krčka: „dobar sat“. Duže kvari ukus.
  5. Lift off any fat and strain through muslin into a clean pan.Skini masnoću i procedi kroz gazu u čistu šerpu.
  • For chicken consommé, more roast carcasses go into the clarification, if they are not too fatty.Za pileći konsome u bistrenje ide više pečenih kostura, ako nisu premasni.
  • Fish consommé (formula 4): fish stock clarified with pressed caviar, ½ lb for 4½ quarts, 20 minutes. Saffron or curry improve it, he says.Riblji konsome (formula 4): riblji temeljac izbistren presovanim kavijarom, ½ lb na 4½ kvarta, 20 minuta. Šafran ili kari ga, kaže, poboljšaju.
TodayDanas
  • Most kitchens now add finely chopped mirepoix and a little tomato to the meat and white: more flavour, and the acid helps the raft set.Većina kuhinja danas mesu i belancu dodaje sitno seckan mirepoa i malo paradajza: više ukusa, a kiselina pomaže da se splav stegne.
  • Once the raft has formed, do not stir. Open a small hole in it, so the broth can bubble through and baste it.Kad se splav napravi, ne mešaj. Napravi u njemu malu rupu, da supa kroz nju ključa i preliva ga.
  • Ladle it out through the hole, then strain through a wet cloth.Grabi kutlačom kroz rupu, pa procedi kroz vlažnu krpu.
Asket versionAsket verzija
  • The raft is part of the cost: meat per litre and the yield go on the sheet, like any ingredient.Splav je deo cene: meso po litru i prinos idu u kalkulaciju, kao svaka namirnica.
  • The egg whites left from custard and pastry cream go here.Belanca koja ostanu od kremova idu ovde.
  • Salt at service, by the table: a soup is most pleasant at 0.6–0.9 %.So pri služenju, po tablici: supa je najprijatnija na 0,6–0,9 %.
When reality does not follow the recipeKad stvarnost ne prati recept
  • The raft broke upSplav se raspao It boiled too hard or was stirred. Strain, cool, and clarify again with a new raft.Ključalo je prejako ili je mešano. Procedi, ohladi i bistri ponovo, novim splavom.
  • Still cloudyI dalje mutan The broth was warm or fatty at the start. It must be cold and free of fat.Supa je na početku bila topla ili masna. Mora biti hladna i bez masnoće.
  • PaleBled Half an onion charred in a dry pan, into the raft.Pola glavice luka zapečeno na suvom tiganju, u splav.
  • Fish consomméRiblji konsome Fish stock clarified with minced white fish and egg white, 20 minutes.Riblji temeljac izbistren mlevenom belom ribom i belancem, 20 minuta.
StorageČuvanje
  • Cool fast: from 57 °C to 21 °C within 2 hours, then to 5 °C within another 4 hours (FDA Food Code). Shallow containers, an ice bath, stir now and then.Brzo hladi: sa 57 °C na 21 °C za 2 sata, pa do 5 °C za još 4 sata (FDA Food Code). Plitke posude, ledena kupka, povremeno promešaj.
  • Fridge: 3–4 days. Freezer: 2–3 months for best quality, labelled with the date. Bring to the boil before use.Frižider: 3–4 dana. Zamrzivač: 2–3 meseca za najbolji kvalitet, sa datumom. Pre upotrebe prokuvaj.
03

Purée soupPire čorba potage purée · Parmentier

A vegetable cooked in broth and passed through a sieve. Floury vegetables bind themselves; watery ones need rice, potato or bread.Povrće skuvano u supi i propasirano. Brašnjavo povrće se samo veže; vodenastom treba pirinač, krompir ili hleb.
Soup · thickČorba · gustaEscoffier, formulas 239 and 658Eskofije, formule 239 i 658
Original · Escoffier, formulas 239 and 658Original · Eskofije, formule 239 i 658
Yield: Prinos: not statednije navedeno
1907metricmetrički
2white parts of leek, finely slicedbela dela praziluka, tanko isečena
1 oz28 gbutter, to sweat the leekputera, za dinstanje praziluka
3medium potatoes, quarteredsrednja krompira, na četvrtine
1 pint1 pinta0.57 l0,57 lwhite consommébelog konsomea
boiled milk or thin cream, to bring it to consistencyprokuvano mleko ili retka pavlaka, do gustine
2 tbsp2 kašikefried bread dice, and chervil leavesprženih kockica hleba, i listići krbuljice
  1. Sweat the leek in the butter.Praziluk izdinstaj na puteru.
  2. Add the potatoes and the consommé and cook quickly.Dodaj krompir i konsome i kuvaj brzo.
  3. Crush the potatoes and pass everything through a fine sieve.Zgnječi krompir i sve propasiraj kroz gusto sito.
  4. Bring to consistency with boiled milk or thin cream, and back to the boil.Prokuvanim mlekom ili retkom pavlakom dovedi do gustine, pa ponovo do ključanja.
  5. At serving, a piece of butter; serve with the fried bread and chervil.Pri služenju dodaj komad putera; služi sa prženim hlebom i krbuljicom.
  • The rule (formula 239): floury vegetables (potato, dried beans, lentils, peas) need no binder.Pravilo (formula 239): brašnjavo povrće (krompir, pasulj, sočivo, grašak) ne treba vezivo.
  • Watery vegetables need, per lb (454 g): 3 oz (85 g) of rice, or 10 oz (283 g) of potato, or 10 oz of fried bread dice.Vodenasto povrće traži, na lb (454 g): 3 oz (85 g) pirinča, ili 10 oz (283 g) krompira, ili 10 oz prženih kockica hleba.
  • Thin it with white consommé (with milk for Lent) and finish with 3 oz (85 g) of butter per quart.Razređuje se belim konsomeom (za post mlekom), a završava sa 3 oz (85 g) putera na kvart.
TodayDanas
  • Today the binder is usually potato, the soup is blended instead of sieved, and the butter is a spoonful, not 75 g.Danas je vezivo obično krompir, čorba se blenduje umesto da se pasira, a puter je kašika, ne 75 g.
  • Never blend a hot soup in a closed, full blender: the steam lifts the lid. Fill it a third, hold the lid with a cloth.Vruću čorbu nikad ne blenduj u punom, zatvorenom blenderu: para podigne poklopac. Napuni ga do trećine i drži poklopac krpom.
Asket versionAsket verzija
  • Pantry version: the vegetable purée without salt and without thinning. Frozen in portions, it becomes a soup, a sauce or the base of a plate.Verzija za ostavu: pire od povrća bez soli i bez razređivanja. Zamrznut u porcijama postaje čorba, sos ili podloga na tanjiru.
  • Salt at service, by the table: a soup is most pleasant at 0.6–0.9 %.So pri služenju, po tablici: supa je najprijatnija na 0,6–0,9 %.
When reality does not follow the recipeKad stvarnost ne prati recept
  • Too thinPreretka Reduce it uncovered, or blend in a boiled potato.Kuvaj je otklopljenu, ili dodaj kuvan krompir i izblenduj.
  • GlueyLepljiva The potato was blended too long; its starch turns to glue. Mash or sieve the potato and blend only the rest.Krompir je predugo blendovan; skrob mu postane lepak. Krompir izgnječi ili propasiraj, a blenduj samo ostalo.
  • VeganPosna Vegetable stock and oil instead of consommé and butter; oat milk at the end.Povrtni temeljac i ulje umesto konsomea i putera; ovseno mleko na kraju.
StorageČuvanje
  • Cool fast: from 57 °C to 21 °C within 2 hours, then to 5 °C within another 4 hours (FDA Food Code). Shallow containers, an ice bath, stir now and then.Brzo hladi: sa 57 °C na 21 °C za 2 sata, pa do 5 °C za još 4 sata (FDA Food Code). Plitke posude, ledena kupka, povremeno promešaj.
  • Fridge: 3 days. It freezes well before the milk and butter go in.Frižider: 3 dana. Dobro se zamrzava pre nego što se dodaju mleko i puter.
04

Velouté and cream soupsVelute i krem čorba potage velouté · potage crème

Velouté, purée and consommé in fixed parts. For a velouté soup, finished with yolks and cream; for a cream soup, béchamel and milk, finished with cream only.Velute, pire i konsome u stalnim delovima. Velute čorba se završava žumancima i pavlakom; krem čorba ide na bešamelu i mleku i završava se samo pavlakom.
Soup · boundČorba · vezanaEscoffier, formulas 242–243Eskofije, formule 242–243
Original · Escoffier, formulas 242–243Original · Eskofije, formule 242–243
Yield: Prinos: 4 quarts (4.5 l), his example4 kvarta (4,5 l), njegov primer
1907metricmetrički
3 pints3 pinte1.7 l1,7 lvelouté (white roux, 3½ oz per quart of liquid)velutea (bela zaprška, 3½ oz na kvart tečnosti)
1 quart1 kvart1.14 l1,14 lpurée of fowlpirea od živine
1 quart1 kvart1.14 l1,14 lwhite consommébelog konsomea
12egg yolksžumanaca
⅘ pint⅘ pinte0.45 l0,45 lcreamslatke pavlake
  • Velouté soup (242): by volume, velouté half, purée a quarter, consommé a quarter. Bind with 3 yolks and ⅕ pint (0.11 l) of cream per quart.Velute čorba (242): po zapremini pola velutea, četvrtina pirea, četvrtina konsomea. Veže se sa 3 žumanca i ⅕ pinte (0,11 l) pavlake na kvart.
  • Cream soup (243): clear béchamel instead of velouté, milk instead of consommé, no yolks and no butter. Finish with ⅕–⅖ pint (0.11–0.23 l) of cream per quart; some take 3 tablespoons of poached rice per quart.Krem čorba (243): redak bešamel umesto velutea, mleko umesto konsomea, bez žumanaca i bez putera. Završava se sa ⅕–⅖ pinte (0,11–0,23 l) pavlake na kvart; neke dobijaju i 3 kašike kuvanog pirinča na kvart.
  • The English edition words the cream-soup rule the wrong way round ("velouté is substituted for clear Béchamel"); cream soups are made on béchamel, so we read it as béchamel instead of velouté.Englesko izdanje pravilo za krem čorbu piše naopako („velute dolazi umesto retkog bešamela“); krem čorbe se prave na bešamelu, pa to čitamo kao bešamel umesto velutea.
TodayDanas
  • Most kitchens today make one simpler cream soup: vegetable sweated, stock, a little roux or potato, blended, finished with cream.Većina kuhinja danas pravi jednu, jednostavniju krem čorbu: povrće izdinstano, temeljac, malo zaprške ili krompir, izblendovano, završeno pavlakom.
  • Once the yolks are in, it must not boil again: hot, below the boil.Kad žumanca uđu, čorba više ne sme da proključa: vruća, ispod ključanja.
Asket versionAsket verzija
  • The yolks and cream go in at service, per portion or per pot that will be served now.Žumanca i pavlaka idu pri služenju, po porciji ili u lonac koji se odmah služi.
  • Salt at service, by the table: a soup is most pleasant at 0.6–0.9 %.So pri služenju, po tablici: supa je najprijatnija na 0,6–0,9 %.
When reality does not follow the recipeKad stvarnost ne prati recept
  • The liaison curdledVeza se zgrušala It boiled. Blend it smooth at once; next time temper the yolks with a ladle of soup first.Proključala je. Odmah izblenduj; sledeći put žumanca prvo razmuti kutlačom čorbe.
  • No velouté readyNema gotovog velutea Pale roux straight into the stock, about 45 g per litre of soup, 20 minutes.Svetla zaprška direktno u temeljac, oko 45 g na litar čorbe, 20 minuta.
  • Gluten-freeBez glutena Rice flour or potato as the binder.Pirinčano brašno ili krompir kao vezivo.
StorageČuvanje
  • Cool fast: from 57 °C to 21 °C within 2 hours, then to 5 °C within another 4 hours (FDA Food Code). Shallow containers, an ice bath, stir now and then.Brzo hladi: sa 57 °C na 21 °C za 2 sata, pa do 5 °C za još 4 sata (FDA Food Code). Plitke posude, ledena kupka, povremeno promešaj.
  • Fridge: 2–3 days, without the yolk liaison; bind only what is served.Frižider: 2–3 dana, bez veze od žumanaca; veži samo ono što se služi.
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