BasicsOsnove · 07

Sugar, eggs,
milk.
Šećer, jaja,
mleko.

Custard sauce, pastry cream, whipped cream, and sugar from syrup to caramel. Here the thermometer decides.Krem anglez, poslastičarski krem, šlag, i šećer od sirupa do karamela. Ovde odlučuje termometar.

1907 measures: 1 lb = 454 g · 1 oz = 28 g · 1 quart = 1.14 l · 1 pint = 0.57 l · 1 tablespoon ≈ 15 ml · 1 bottle ≈ 0.75 l.Mere iz 1907: 1 lb = 454 g · 1 oz = 28 g · 1 kvart = 1,14 l · 1 pinta = 0,57 l · 1 kašika ≈ 15 ml · 1 boca ≈ 0,75 l.

01

Custard sauceKrem anglez crème anglaise

Yolks, sugar and milk, cooked until they coat a spoon, never boiled. The base of butter cream, Bavarian cream and ice cream.Žumanca, šećer i mleko, kuvani dok ne oblože varjaču, a da nikad ne proključaju. Osnova puter krema, bavarske kreme i sladoleda.
Me · sweet sauceMe · slatki sosEscoffier, formula 2397Eskofije, formula 2397
Original · Escoffier, formula 2397Original · Eskofije, formula 2397
Yield: Prinos: not stated (about 1.5 l)nije navedeno (oko 1,5 l)
1907metricmetrički
12egg yolksžumanaca
¾ lb340 gsugaršećera
1 quart1 kvart1.14 l1,14 lboiling milkključalog mleka
  1. Work the yolks and sugar in a pan until they fall in a ribbon.Žumanca i šećer umuti u šerpi dok ne počnu da padaju kao traka.
  2. Add the boiling milk little by little.Malo-pomalo dodaj ključalo mleko.
  3. Cook on the fire, stirring, until it approaches the boil and coats the spoon. It must never boil.Kuvaj na vatri, uz mešanje, dok se ne približi ključanju i ne obloži varjaču. Nikad ne sme da proključa.
  4. Strain, and stir now and then as it cools.Procedi i povremeno promešaj dok se hladi.
  • For hot sweets, a tablespoon of arrowroot is added.Za tople poslastice dodaje se kašika arorut skroba.
  • Uncooked version, for poached dishes: 6 oz (170 g) sugar, 1 quart milk, 12 yolks.Nekuvana verzija, za jela koja se poširaju: 6 oz (170 g) šećera, 1 kvart mleka, 12 žumanaca.
  • Sugar: 6 oz per quart is "a happy medium"; it can go from 3 to 12 oz. The thickness depends on the yolks.Šećer: 6 oz na kvart je „zlatna sredina“; može od 3 do 12 oz. Gustina zavisi od žumanaca.
  • Butter cream: lukewarm custard and its own weight of butter. Bavarian cream: 8 leaves of gelatine per quart and twice its volume of whipped cream.Puter krem: mlak krem anglez i ista masa putera. Bavarska krema: 8 listića želatina na kvart i dvostruka zapremina šlaga.
TodayDanas
  • Today usually less sweet, often half milk and half cream, and cooked by the thermometer instead of the spoon.Danas obično manje slatko, često pola mleko, pola pavlaka, i kuva se po termometru umesto po varjači.
  • As soon as it reaches temperature, pour it through a sieve into a cold bowl: the hot pan keeps cooking it.Čim dostigne temperaturu, procedi ga u hladnu posudu: vruća šerpa nastavlja da ga kuva.
  • Vanilla: the split pod infused in the milk and scraped.Vanila: rasečena mahuna prožme mleko, pa se sastruže.
Asket versionAsket verzija
  • The temperature is the recipe: 79–83 °C, from our fire table, measured, not guessed.Temperatura je recept: 79–83 °C, iz naše tablice vatre, izmereno, ne odoka.
  • Rinsed and dried, the vanilla pod goes into the sugar jar. The whites go to meringue or to the consommé raft.Isprana i osušena mahuna vanile ide u teglu sa šećerom. Belanca idu u puslice ili u splav za konsome.
  • Salt in a dessert: 0.3–0.6 %, a pinch in the milk.So u desertu: 0,3–0,6 %, prstohvat u mleko.
When reality does not follow the recipeKad stvarnost ne prati recept
  • It curdled a littleMalo se zgrušao Off the heat at once, into a cold jug, stick blender, strain.Odmah sa vatre, u hladan bokal, štapni mikser, procedi.
  • Too thinPreredak Not cooked enough: back on a low heat to 80 °C. Or more yolks next time.Nedovoljno kuvan: vrati na tihu vatru do 80 °C. Ili sledeći put više žumanaca.
  • Must hold for a hot sweetMora da izdrži uz toplu poslasticu Escoffier's own way: a tablespoon of arrowroot (or cornflour) per quart.Eskofijeov način: kašika arorut skroba (ili kukuruznog) na kvart.
StorageČuvanje
  • Cool fast over ice, stirring; fridge 2 days, covered.Brzo ohladi na ledu, uz mešanje; frižider 2 dana, pokriven.
What is made from itŠta iz njega nastaje
  • Butter creamPuter krem + the same weight of butter+ ista masa putera
  • Bavarian creamBavarska krema + gelatine and whipped cream+ želatin i šlag
  • Ice creamSladoled the base, churnedosnova, izmešana u mašini
02

Pastry creamPoslastičarski krem crème pâtissière · frangipane

A custard thickened with flour and boiled. It holds its shape: éclairs, tarts, mille-feuille.Krem od jaja vezan brašnom i prokuvan. Drži oblik: ekleri, tarte, mil fej.
Original · Escoffier, formulas 2399–2401Original · Eskofije, formule 2399–2401
Yield: Prinos: not stated (about 1 kg)nije navedeno (oko 1 kg)
1907metricmetrički
½ lb227 gsugaršećera
2 oz57 gflourbrašna
2eggsjaja
5egg yolksžumanaca
1 pint1 pinta0.57 l0,57 lboiling milkključalog mleka
a grain of salt, flavouring to tastezrno soli, aroma po ukusu
3 oz85 gbutter, at the endputera, na kraju
2 tbsp2 kašikecrushed macaroons, at the endizmrvljenih makarona, na kraju
  1. Mix the sugar, flour, eggs, yolks and salt in a pan; add the boiling milk with the flavouring.U šerpi sjedini šećer, brašno, jaja, žumanca i so; dodaj ključalo mleko sa aromom.
  2. Bring to the boil and boil for a few minutes, stirring.Dovedi do ključanja i kuvaj nekoliko minuta, uz mešanje.
  3. Add the butter and the crushed macaroons.Dodaj puter i izmrvljene makarone.
  4. Pour into a bowl and butter the surface, so no skin forms.Sipaj u posudu i premaži površinu puterom, da ne uhvati koru.
  • That is frangipane (2399). Pastry cream proper is his St-Honoré cream (2401) without the whites and gelatine: per quart of milk, 1 lb (454 g) sugar, 4 oz (113 g) flour, 12 yolks, orange-flower water.To je frangipan (2399). Pravi poslastičarski krem je njegov krem za Sent-Onore (2401) bez belanaca i želatina: na kvart mleka 1 lb (454 g) šećera, 4 oz (113 g) brašna, 12 žumanaca, voda od pomorandžinog cveta.
  • St-Honoré cream: the same with 4 leaves of gelatine and 12 stiffly beaten whites. The gelatine is needed if the cream must wait in hot weather.Krem za Sent-Onore: isto, sa 4 listića želatina i 12 belanaca umućenih u čvrst sneg. Želatin treba ako krem mora da čeka po toplom vremenu.
  • Fried cream (2400): 6 oz flour, 6 oz sugar, 10 yolks, 4 eggs, 1 quart milk, 1 oz butter, spread an inch thick.Pržena krema (2400): 6 oz brašna, 6 oz šećera, 10 žumanaca, 4 jaja, 1 kvart mleka, 1 oz putera, razastrto debljine jednog palca.
TodayDanas
  • It must boil for about a minute. Egg yolk contains an enzyme, amylase, that otherwise thins the starch overnight; near the boil it is switched off (Joe Pastry, after McGee).Mora da prokuva oko minut. Žumance ima enzim, amilazu, koji bi inače preko noći razredio skrob; blizu ključanja se gasi (Joe Pastry, po McGeeju).
  • Cornflour instead of flour gives a cleaner taste and a glossier cream.Kukuruzni skrob umesto brašna daje čistiji ukus i sjajniji krem.
  • Cling film touching the surface instead of butter.Folija priljubljena uz površinu umesto putera.
Asket versionAsket verzija
  • One base, two numbers: the same cream for éclairs and for a tart differs only in starch and butter. Write both down.Jedna osnova, dva broja: isti krem za eklere i za tartu razlikuje se samo u skrobu i puteru. Zapiši oba.
  • Sugar by the table: Escoffier's 400 g per litre is sweet for today; we taste at 200 and 250.Šećer po tablici: Eskofijeovih 400 g na litar je danas slatko; probamo na 200 i 250.
When reality does not follow the recipeKad stvarnost ne prati recept
  • Runny the next daySutradan se razvodnio It did not boil long enough (amylase). Boil a full minute next time.Nije dovoljno prokuvao (amilaza). Sledeći put pun minut ključanja.
  • LumpsGrudve Whisk hard off the heat, or pass it through a sieve while hot.Energično umuti van vatre, ili ga procedi kroz sito dok je vruć.
  • Has to stand in a tartMora da stoji u tarti Escoffier: gelatine, 4 leaves per quart. Or more starch and butter.Eskofije: želatin, 4 listića na kvart. Ili više skroba i putera.
  • LighterLakši Fold in whipped cream once it is cold (crème diplomate), or beaten whites (St-Honoré, formula 2401).Kad se ohladi, umešaj šlag (crème diplomate) ili umućena belanca (Sent-Onore, formula 2401).
StorageČuvanje
  • Cool fast, film on the surface; fridge 2–3 days. Do not freeze it: the starch weeps.Brzo ohladi, folija na površini; frižider 2–3 dana. Ne zamrzavaj: skrob pusti vodu.
What is made from itŠta iz njega nastaje
  • Diplomat creamDiplomat krem + whipped cream+ šlag
  • St-Honoré (Chiboust)Sent-Onore (Šibust) + gelatine and beaten whites+ želatin i umućena belanca
  • FrangipaneFrangipan + butter and macaroons+ puter i makarone
  • Fried creamPržena krema set, cut, breaded, friedstegnuta, isečena, pohovana, pržena
03

Whipped creamŠlag crème Chantilly

Cold cream whipped with a little sugar, stopped in time.Hladna pavlaka umućena sa malo šećera, zaustavljena na vreme.
Original · Escoffier, formula 2402Original · Eskofije, formula 2402
1907metricmetrički
the best cream, kept 24 hours on icenajbolja slatka pavlaka, držana 24 sata na ledu
4 oz113 gsugar per quart, part of it vanilla sugaršećera na kvart, delom sa vanilom
  1. Whip the cream on ice.Pavlaku muti na ledu.
  2. Add the sugar.Dodaj šećer.
  3. Stop before it turns to butter.Stani pre nego što se pretvori u puter.
TodayDanas
  • Cream with at least 30–35 % fat whips; leaner cream will not hold.Muti se pavlaka sa najmanje 30–35 % masti; posnija ne drži.
  • Soft peaks for folding into creams, firm peaks for piping. Past that it turns grainy, then to butter.Meki vrhovi za umešavanje u kremove, čvrsti za špric. Posle toga postaje zrnast, pa puter.
Asket versionAsket verzija
  • Overwhipped cream is not waste: keep whipping, it becomes butter and buttermilk.Premućena pavlaka nije otpad: muti dalje, postaće puter i mlaćenica.
When reality does not follow the recipeKad stvarnost ne prati recept
  • It will not whipNeće da se umuti Too warm or too lean. Bowl and whisk 15 minutes in the freezer.Pretopla ili previše posna. Posuda i mutilica 15 minuta u zamrzivač.
  • GrainyZrnast Fold in a few spoons of liquid cream by hand.Rukom umešaj nekoliko kašika tečne pavlake.
StorageČuvanje
  • Fridge, covered, a few hours: it weeps. For a whole day, a little gelatine or mascarpone.Frižider, pokriven, nekoliko sati: pusti vodu. Za ceo dan, malo želatina ili maskarponea.
04

Sugar: syrup and caramelŠećer: sirup i karamel sucre cuit · caramel

Sugar and water cooked by the thermometer. Every stage has its temperature and its use.Šećer i voda kuvani po termometru. Svaka faza ima svoju temperaturu i svoju upotrebu.
Me · the sweet carrierMe · nosilac slatkogWikipedia, Candy making (after Exploratorium and Baking911)Wikipedia, Candy making (po Exploratorium i Baking911)
MethodPostupak
  1. Clean pan, clean sugar. A single crystal on the side can set the whole pan crystallising: wash the sides with a wet brush.Čista šerpa, čist šećer. Jedan kristal na ivici može da pokrene kristalizaciju cele šerpe: ivice operi mokrom četkicom.
  2. Wet caramel: sugar with about a third of its weight of water, cooked without stirring. A little glucose or a drop of lemon keeps it from crystallising.Mokri karamel: šećer sa oko trećinom svoje mase vode, kuvan bez mešanja. Malo glukoze ili kap limuna sprečava kristalizaciju.
  3. Dry caramel: sugar alone in a wide pan, a little at a time, swirling the pan instead of stirring.Suvi karamel: samo šećer u širokoj šerpi, malo po malo, uz okretanje šerpe umesto mešanja.
  4. Stop the cooking with warm cream or water, poured in away from your face: it boils up hard.Kuvanje zaustavi toplom pavlakom ili vodom, sipanom dalje od lica: jako zakipi.
TodayDanas
  • Syrup: sugar and water 1 : 1 for a light syrup, up to 2 : 1 for a rich one (by volume, Wikipedia). In our kitchen we weigh.Sirup: šećer i voda 1 : 1 za lak sirup, do 2 : 1 za gust (po zapremini, Vikipedija). U našoj kuhinji merimo masu.
  • Italian meringue: syrup at the ball stages, about 118–121 °C, poured onto whipping whites.Italijanska meringa: sirup u fazi kuglice, oko 118–121 °C, sipan na belanca koja se mute.
Asket versionAsket verzija
  • Caramel is sweetness with bitterness: the darker, the less sweet. Weigh it like any seasoning.Karamel je slatko sa gorkim: što je tamniji, manje je sladak. Meri ga kao svaki začin.
  • A pinch of salt in a caramel sauce: 0.3–0.6 %, the dessert range.Prstohvat soli u karamel sosu: 0,3–0,6 %, raspon za desert.
When reality does not follow the recipeKad stvarnost ne prati recept
  • It crystallisedKristalisao se Add water, dissolve it, start again; next time glucose or a drop of lemon, and a wet brush on the sides.Dodaj vodu, rastopi, počni ponovo; sledeći put glukoza ili kap limuna i mokra četkica po ivicama.
  • Too dark, bitterPretaman, gorak At 177 °C it is burnt. It cannot be fixed.Na 177 °C je zagoreo. Ne može da se popravi.
  • Caramel sauce hard when coldKaramel sos se stvrdne kad se ohladi More cream or water: the sugar is too concentrated.Više pavlake ili vode: šećer je previše koncentrisan.
  • SafetyBezbednost At 160 °C sugar sticks to skin and keeps burning. Keep a bowl of iced water at hand.Na 160 °C šećer se lepi za kožu i nastavlja da peče. Drži činiju ledene vode pri ruci.
StorageČuvanje
  • Syrup: fridge, closed; the richer, the longer it keeps. Caramel sauce with cream: fridge, about a week.Sirup: frižider, zatvoren; što je gušći, duže traje. Karamel sos sa pavlakom: frižider, oko nedelju dana.